Lowering engine position in subframe
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi all,
I searched but couldn't find what I was looking for.

Here is the thing; I want to lower the engine a bit more than std to get a bit more clearance for the SC at the top, I am looking for about 5mm.
I know people commonly use an auto subframe to get the engine to sit lower, but I don't have one..

So I was thinking to modify the original subframe mounts to solid including reduced height.
But as everything seems to have already been done at least one here on TM I was wondering what others have done?

Also, is there a (major) disadvantage to running solid mounts?

Cheers,
Han

And have a good one this evening!

Dazed and Confused....

Solid mounts will transmit horrendous vibrations through the car, and potentially shake & break things you didn't even consider possible.
Normally described as racing use only for a reason !

An Auto subframe shouldn't be to difficult to source for very few pennies.

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

Thanks for that input Alex.
I have been on the lookout for an auto subframe, haven't found one yet.

I considered moving the 2.5mm plate where the motor mounts rest on from the inside to the outside. but that only gives me about 2.5mm drop.
Guess I will have to keep looking for an auto subframe..

By the way, how much will a auto subframe drop the engine?

Han

Dazed and Confused....

rad side is easyish as you have the two bolts through the ally block, you can just file the holes out a bit,

on the flywheel end, I would look at machining down the bit on the wok that the engine mount bolts to, then redrill the bolt holes in the subby lower down.

Would it be worth thinking about lowering the whole subframe if 5mm is all you require? You could easily make up new solid mounts to accommodate that, or modify some of the existing.

if anything you wanna raise the suby to get better susension angles/ travel.

I know joe, just thinking outside the box, maybe he could raise the subby by a couple mm and then lower the engine by a couple of mm so it doesn't really compromise anything if that makes sense.

Thanks for that lads.
Lowering the subframe has passed my thoughts.

Might be onto an auto subframe.. (happy new year :) )
Does anybody know how much an auto frame will lower the engine?

Cheers,
Han

Dazed and Confused....

The auto subframe is very wide at the point where the engine mounts bolt in so you will have to fabricate spacers - these will determine how much the engine will drop. If it were me I would rather modify what is already there since fabrication is needed whichever subframe you use.

I would modify the steel bracket on the radiator end which the mounting bolts to so that it bolts on closer to the engine effectively narrowing the whole lot and slightly extend the steel parts of the mountings so you can move the bolt hole positions to drop the engine.

I hope that makes sense to you

I seriously doubt it!

If you don't use spacers on an auto subframe, could you not just drill the engine mount holes further down the subframe rails at the point where the width matches a normal subframe?
You may need to add a plate to the outside if the rails if the new holes would flash with the old one.

Its too wide for that

EDIT, Dont listen to me Im talking shit, lol

Edited by paul wiginton on 1st Jan, 2014.

I seriously doubt it!

I think I have about 5mm of spacers in my auto sub in the spud.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

I seriously doubt it!

I used 4mm spacers between the engine and standard engine mountings rather than between the subframe and engine mountings. Makes it easier to fit the engine. This drops the engine mounting holes immediately below the original holes in the auto subframe and equates to ~ 1/2" drop of the engine in the bay.

Thank you all very much in contributing to a sollution.
If the guy I contacted realy has an auto sub I will measure it up to see what the exact width is and if it seems reasonable to continue this route.
Must say Sprockets sollution seems quite simple to materialise and will give me some 'tuning' possibilities height-wise.

Thanks again for your thoughts!
Han

Dazed and Confused....

It should be easy to identify the auto frame as it will have a cranked cross member at the front and the distance between mounting holes on one side is wider than standard manual mountings, *edit again* i'm not sure which side

Edited by Sprocket on 1st Jan, 2014.

don't fit solid mounts, had them on a mini years ago and the noise was horrid.. vowed i never would again.

BHP sells engines, but Torque wins races!