1098cc internal parts with ARP rod Bolts hitting block?
Turbo Mini Forums

So im stuck between a block and con rod? "rock n hard place"

as some of you know im doing a turbocharged 1098cc 60 over (1150cc)
its using the 83.72 mm crank and 66.104mm bore
now the rods are all the same (except for right n left pairs for offset bore?) for small bore right? at 5.57"
rods have been crack tested, lightened, re sized, balanced end for end, stress relieved, shot penned, checked over straightness ect.. so sort of a problem if they cant be used...
the block is a thick flange one with nice ball n spring oil jets all the re build stuff n ready to rock so also a problem if it cant be used

using ARP bolts all the way throw out

now the problem !

during the dummy build for deck height shop rings me and says your engine wont turn over.. so im like what the hell
they explained the ARP bolts hit the block at the gearbox gasket flange and also going the other way hit on the upper block wall part

has anyone had this?

shop says ive got some options i say grate lets here them!
grind the block a lot not good next...
grind the bolt heads also not good next...
take the hardened washers out dont like that wont the bolt head chew into the soft rod? not good next...

at this point im thinking are these guys engineers?
how about using a nice radius cutter to counter sink the washer and bolt down in the cap?
shop said they hadn't thought of that...
shop is going to check if the bolt will go down the rod far enough and also see if it will make the cap thin
now since the rods have no dowels just the stepped bit there should be a good bit of meat under the bolt head to share bolt load to the cap right?
can anyone see any problems with this?
or a better way around it?

ive asked them

are the rods in the correct places and right way? said they tried the other way n it hit the cam so i expect they have the rods in correct...??

Edited by Turbo This.. on 15th Jan, 2014.

I'm running ARP bolts in a 1098 (which is an 83.82mm stroke unless you've altered yours) with no problems at all.

Are you using the correct 998/1098 bolts ?

At the rods in the correct way round ?

Edited by Alex on 15th Jan, 2014.

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

New info...

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

no crank is std 1098cc throw to my knowledge..
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMC_A-Series_engine

ahh i doubt they have timed the cam in as ive got the cam sprocket...
will ask them again and drop the parts in that they need
could they turn the cam and crank by had slowly to see if they have things in right?
ie use your hands to be the cam chain and get things at the right places? just a thought..

3.3" x 25.4 = 83.82mm

Don't believe Wikipedia !!

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

Well I doubt they'd get it right as I believe the cam runs half the speed of the crank or something daft like that, anyhow, they could rotate the cam so that the rods clear, then rotate the crank 180 and rotate the cam around to see if it misses everything with the crank in that position? If you get my drift.

Edited by Sprocket on 15th Jan, 2014.

Colin the arp rod bolts come with the washers
They do have a up and down side.. The cutout is for the bolt heAd could this cause them to sit too high?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

Alex yep that will teach me for not going to get the workshop book !

Carlzilla , Sprocket ill make sure they get that parts to "dot to dot" roughly time it. hoping that fixes it and/or they have the rods in backwards ..


gr4h4m that they do id rather use washers and sing them in the cap than throw them over my shoulder.. arp has given them for a reason i believe if i had good aftermarket rods id perhaps not use them. from memory the bolt has like 25- 30mm? or something of threaded engagement surely that is plenty and the washer thickness is a negligible difference to strength? not having a go just didnt think 1/2 -1 thread should make a difference in holding strength?

time for work...

The rods are mounted the wrong way!

^ Good call

YEP!
the shop had the rods in ass over tit ...

all is well cheers guys !

Pisser

mmm made me freak haha
hope this is the only silly thing that that do and not something worse...

should be ready for pick up mid-end week

then i get to look like a fool asking loads of dumb questions and posting a big engine build thingy loaded with pics to make sure i do it right...

fun fun

Are you sure these guys should be trusted to build your engine?

Speeding is like masturbating, everyone does it, but not all of us film it and put it on the internet

[quote=fab,8th Oct, 2010]fuck off

This is what is be concerned about.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

I do tend to agree.

They had them the wrong way around at first and blamed the bolts.

Then when they had them the right way around they said they hit the cam.

The interaction between crank/rods/cam is well known on A series.

But even if they are not familiar with A Series, it's no different to leaving the cambelt off a DOHC engine and wondering why the valves hit the pistons.

They should have worked the cam bit out for themselves.

And why was the cam in (without chain) anyway for a dry build to measure deck height. It's just more stuff to get covered in crap (un-neccisarily) when they machine the block deck.

I would check their work very carefully from now on.

Your comment about them on the "show us yours" thread is quite valid.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

One thing I will say to watch out for with the 1098 crank is that if you fit a central oil pick up pipe in the gearbox, drop the block on top then check that the crank does not catch the pick up pipe before further assembly.
I learned this the hard way many years ago and had to take the engine and box out again to strip and sort out the pick up pipe.

Good to hear, and that's why we use this forum, it is better to ask stupid questions about things than to not bother and potentially break something. The wealth of knowledge and mostly experience on this forum is vast, there's not much on here that cannot be answered. And when that does happen, people put their heads together to come up with a solution without all the bullshit. That's why I love using this forum :)

On 16th Jan, 2014 Turbo This.. said:
mmm made me freak haha
hope this is the only silly thing that that do and not something worse...

should be ready for pick up mid-end week

then i get to look like a fool asking loads of dumb questions and posting a big engine build thingy loaded with pics to make sure i do it right...

fun fun

Another thing to check is that the piston skirt clears the dizzy drive.

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

tom and alex id not thought of ether of them but then again im useing the other block to mock up in car so cant mess around with like for like combination to see how it will work

if i rember correctly i have the flat toped drilled Graham pistons i think.. changed my mine a bunch before buying then i changed agian to the drilled flats vs dished slotted
from memory they have quite a long skirt so think they need a bit of clearance from oil squirts

ive also got a wind tray to go in amongst the center oil pickup is will be a big step from a bog stock build like my first was this being my second!

when the time comes ill be asking if ive checked things and so forth as i go bit by bit i really dont want the build to go bad with the cash that ive put in! now i think about it why didnt i doo a 1293 16v turbo rocket engine! o yeah thats more difficult perhaps the next build?

yep thats what makes Turbo Minis what it is gotta love it