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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Running problems, help needed - N/A 1275 HIF44

Tomm

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Kent

Hello chaps

Firstly sorry that this is N/A related but I am looking for some help. I am in the early stages of converting my Nissan powered "67 to something more original (all be it turboed). I have sourced a complete 1275 N/A in a shell which I have bought for the engine, but I've hit a few problems.

Firstly I will start with the basics.

1275, originally from a metro I believe.
Electronic dizzy (with the two point plug)
HIF44 carb
K&N
LCB

Compression seems strong at 145-150 across the board at WOT.

I have checked the timing with a timing light, it appears to be that the TDC mark is level with the 2nd tooth down on the marker.

Fuelling seemed fine but to eradicate this I have gone for a simple gravity fed fuelling system as a temporary measure

The problem.

I was starting the car, choke out, it would start relatively well. Choke was depressed and the car would idle fine.

As soon as I gave the car the slightest bit of throttle it would bog out and die.

If I got the car to temperature at idle and pulled out the choke it would immediately die, this suggested to me it was running rich?

I checked the carb slide and dash pot oil, there was no oil and the slide was sticking, I cleaned the slide, spring and replaced with oil and cleaned out the float chamber but this made no difference.

After a bit of reading, especially on here I found that the mixture is set primarily by the screw near the fuel inlet and the idle screw? I then found some suggested base settings for the HIF44, I read 3 turns out and then work from there, Is this correct?

I looked at my carb the other night to find this screw was 6 1/2 turns out. I removed the carb, cleaned it, wound the carb to the suggested 3 turns and reinstalled it, the car now struggles to start and if it does it dies immediately.

Could anyone be kind enough to give me some ideas on where to start? I want to remove the engine as soon as possible and get my cooper in the garage but I am reluctant to remove the current 1275 until I have got it running half decent.

I am hoping I have supplied enough information and gone through the correct diagnosis methods.

Thanks in advance, Tomm


wng691s clubby

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Cleethorpes

what needle is in the carb is it correct

Done now needs redoing lol


Tomm

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180 Posts
Member #: 1432
Advanced Member

Kent

A point I meant to ask.

How can I tell?


wng691s clubby

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Cleethorpes

letters on needle then look on line or vizzards bible

Done now needs redoing lol


BENROSS

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Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

Vacum leak on the carb and or manifold, vacum, dizzy pipe to manifold, Carb, breather pipe to carb split or insecure?

Check the above out first!






Tomm

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180 Posts
Member #: 1432
Advanced Member

Kent


On 5th Feb, 2014 wng691s clubby said:
letters on needle then look on line or vizzards bible


Thanks, I will be checking that shortly.


On 5th Feb, 2014 BENROSS said:
Vacum leak on the carb and or manifold, vacum, dizzy pipe to manifold, Carb, breather pipe to carb split or insecure?

Check the above out first!


I've replaced the dizzy to carb pipe, that is fine. The crank feed from the carb is blocked off, I checked, replaced and re-secured this.

Last time I ran the car I seemed to notice what seemed to be exhaust gases coming from under the carb/between the bulkhead and engine. I put this down to residue on the manifold burning off from where it has been stored in the garage with the bonnet off. Is there any chance that this could be the signs of a faulty gasket causing the constant stalling?

Should removing both manifolds and carb, reinstalling with a new gasket set along with checking the needle and replacing if (most likely) needed solve my running problem?

Thanks for all of the advice so far!


BENROSS

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9812 Posts
Member #: 332
Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

Keep us posted





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