will this work?
Turbo Mini Forums

on my t2 it doesnt have a actuator feed from the turbo

would this little setup that ive drawn work?

is the solenoid in the right place?

have no idea, what r u trying to do have a low/high boost switch?

Yeah and the actuator feed.

Any one of those 16 connections you have there come loose, and your ECU thinks you are running a lower boost than you are, and the actuator also won't open...

IMO, the manifold should be drilled and tapped at least two places, ideally three.

One just for the actuator system, one for the boost gauge (and MAP - it's actually a good idea to tee these together IMO) and another just for the Dump valve.

Also, don't scrimp on hoses, or clamps, and critique the hose routing. And pull hard on the hoses after you clamp them; if they can be pulled off with moderate hand force, they aren't on there tight enough.

Ahh awesome!!

I'll do that

But have I put the solenoid in the right place?

yes, looks like it will be fine.

I just looked at my manifold and there is a block In between the manifold and carb shall I just use that for the ecu and boost guage?

I've never understood why you'd want less power!
Just control your right foot, and get rid of the switch!

This is FORD country, on a quiet day you can hear Vauxhalls rusting.

Also, won't having two boost settings make it difficult to set the fueling up? I don't know if you're planning to run injection but with a carb the needle can only be perfect for one of the boost levels, which would be the highest one, and would probably leave you running very rich when on the lower boost?

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0

Because the engine won't be under massive boost load all the time when driving?

I found that when I was launching with big boost it would just wheel spin all the way thought 1st and 1/2 way thought 2nd. So I fitted a switch so I had 10psi to launch and 20psi for 2nd 3rd 4th. Also I was getting faster times

Plumping wise I have, the bleed valve and the solenoid running off the Center branch of that.



This is just my experiences really.

Edited by madmk1 on 14th Mar, 2014.

I have started posting on Instagram also my name on there is turbomk1golf

Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

Control the boost with your right foot . depending on setup etc, the turbo should only make high boost when the engine is being revved hard

I was previously thoroughly confident it would be fine with the right foot approach but obviously there are people who haven't run a gt17/ 20-25 pound boost/circa 200 bhp, I found exactly the same as you Simon-it would either bog or spin, actually I ran 14 through 1st and 2nd and flick to 25psi in third, don't quote me but I believe the chuckle brothers in the worlds fastest upside down skip had a similar experience.

On 14th Mar, 2014 madmk1 said:
I found that when I was launching with big boost it would just wheel spin all the way thought 1st and 1/2 way thought 2nd. So I fitted a switch so I had 10psi to launch and 20psi for 2nd 3rd 4th. Also I was getting faster times

Plumping wise I have, the bleed valve and the solenoid running off the Center branch of that.



This is just my experiences really.

On 5th Oct, 2014 Shauna said:
What that's crazy, you go commando hahaha! How heavy is your helmet ?

i may be going senile , but

,if you run it this way ,then when you bleed off pressure to raise boost ,you drop the line pressure going to your guage and moor importantly to your megajolt ? ,

the line to the wastegate and the bleed need to be a seperate boost take off .... ,unconnected with the rest of it , otherwise you could have 20 psi ,and the jolt is reading 10 psi and giving much to much advance .


robert

On 14th Mar, 2014 coopdog said:
on my t2 it doesnt have a actuator feed from the turbo

would this little setup that ive drawn work?

is the solenoid in the right place?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

You've removed the 'T' from the waste gate to actuator. Doesn't it still need to be in there??!!

This is FORD country, on a quiet day you can hear Vauxhalls rusting.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

When we had your proposed setup in the metro van, we had two signal circuits:

1 - compressor snail to actuator with bleed valve in line.
2. Inlet manifold to MJ and gauge.

The ECU needs to meassure the boost as close to the engine as possible so it is reflective off the conditions the engine is under. It's likely there are some loases between turbo and manifold that the actuator does not need to take into consideration.

Thanks for the help guys!!

I was sure on why way to do it and didn't think of tapping the manifold :L

But I'm going to have seperate feeds for them now :)