Clutch adjustment
Turbo Mini Forums

Ok so i am struggling to get a definitive answer for my question. With the engine running at approx 2,000rpm, i put my foot on the clutch and the engine revs dip from anywhere between 150rpms to 500rpms (it varies for some reason?). I think its a clutch adjustment issue because having removed the engine from the car (a freshly built engine) i have 0.1mm of crank end float and the thrusts appear to be installed correctly. With the clutch adjusted as per haynes manual, i cannot get the clutch to engage into gear. With the throw out nuts wound right out it will engage a gear but the above engine rpms dip slightly.
I have the pre-verto set up.
Brand new clutch master cylinder.
Braided clutch hose.
Brand new slave cylinder.
Brand new minispares race clutch arm and plunger.
Brand new release bearing.
Brand new Grey-dot diaphragm.
Brand new ap clutch.
Brand new MED lightweight flywheel and back plate.

The only thing that isnt new is the slave cylinder push rod.

I have about 8-10mm of linear travel at the top of the clutch arm. I believe this isnt enough but im not sure how to make this longer? Apparently it needs to be 13mm minimum?

I did bleed the clutch quite quickly, maybe i need to bleed it a few more times?

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what my problem could be? Im totally lost!

I have just wondered if this is normal with the very heavy grey diaphragm?

Thanks.

hi chris dont be tempted to extend anything at all or it will end in tears

have you go 0.5 mm between the 1/4" bolt and the clutch arm its the one half way down the arm ...

is the slave the slave cylinder traveling to it full extent on one full pump of the pedal ?

if not try bleading it again

have you fitted new pins in the arm 2 of them ?

answer the above and we can take it from there

The clutch arm should move 1/2 an inch, measured from the clutch slave rod when fully depressed.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!

i had a little bit of trouble beleading my clutch this morning the master cylinder had gotten air in it when i changed the rubber line got around that by removing the steel line and blocking the hole as the peddle was moved up till i got good fluid out
i could then blead the air out no worry's just something to keep in mind if its a new master or you need to belad it n have trouble

what dose the pedal feel like?

Some people find new builds will take a bit of time for the thrusts to bed in.

Bear in mind that the grey covers put a lot of load onto the thrusts.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

I'd be cautious. Some have reported that it was just due to new thrusts. Others have had similar symptoms, but stripped the engine down to reveal that they had in fact installed the thrusts backwards.

In the 13's at last!.. Just

what sort of shifter do you have?
dose it grind if you try for reverse?
if so then you not dis engaged the clutch properly and the gears are still turning
but if it dose not grind when put in reverse then you are not getting enough selector movement to get it fully in gear

not really sure why it drops rpm when the clutch is pressed then?

clutch dosent botom out in the wok?
thrust are correctly installed with end float set?
timeing chain gears set up and cam thrust set?

not sure but sounds like there is more friction being made when the clutch is pressed so id look at the above

id have thought the cam should move equal to the crank and the chain take up any minor mis alingment as the clutch press the crank hard over the cam should follow id have thought?

besides that is the throw out bearing and its thrust plate in good shape?

maby the clutch plate is sticking on the primary gear? unlikely tho id think