Dry decking a 998
Turbo Mini Forums

I rather like the idea of a dry deck, but on a smallbore block the engine steady is in the way of the coreplug at the back of the engine.

I'm loathed to remove the engine steady so I'm wondering if anyone has come up with any elegant solutions.

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

Because my remote turbo manifold is in the way of the original engine steady, I'm using one of these:

http://www.dsnclassics.co.uk/retrosport-sh...l-bore-engines/

But, more importantly, why dry deck a small bore? Have you or do you know of anyone with issues of gasket sealing and cooling?

The 998 has, in my mind, a far more logical cooling passage arrangement between the block and head than the large bore with two large cooling water ports at the flywheel end of the block.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

I squeezed in a hose at the back of the engine and into the head with the engine mount still there.

Modifying it with a grinder was all that was needed.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Why do we all chase daft things like a turbo or a 'charger or EFi or... ?
Because we can !!

My 1150 has run hot enough to turn a copper gasket pink a few times, despite the cooling system being decent.
With a +100 bore on the next one I just wanted to make as certain as I could that the head will not get pickled if I become exuberant with the throttle.

I will struggle to use the DSN kit as I've got a sandwich plate heater takeoff.

If Will has managed to squeeze one in then there is still hope.
I thought the steady was smack in the way of the core plug, but I guess I need to revisit it.

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

DSN do a thermostat steady with a sandwich plate.

My 998 turbo could cruise at over 100mph for 20 miles with a 2 core rad and otherwise standard cooling system without overheating.

If your 1150 is cooking, then there is something else wrong.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

I only did it on the SC head. Cooling on a CNC head is always the tough bit, so this really helped.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

This is the odd thing, the temperature gauge has never hot into the Hot zone and being a Clubbie front with a 2-core rad the temperature is normally on the cool side.
Extended runs at silly speed see the temp rock solid even on a hot day and the oil pressure is as good as I'd expect as well.

I burnt an exhaust valve (properly with bits missing and everything) at the beginning of the year and the gasket was showing signs of heat treatment.

I may fit my electric pump with the cool-down facility to see if that makes any difference instead then.

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

If you burnt a valve, then you should start with fueling and ignition.

What's the engine spec? Do you monitor AFRs?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

Original 40+ year old valves in an unleaded 12G295 - I'm putting it down to one-of-those-things.

The fuelling was correct when it was rolling-roaded, but I suspect the valve guides are shot as it is a massive oil burner.
The spec on this one is +060", MG Metro cam timed in massively retarded (seemed like a good idea at the time, but I can't for the life of me think why now...), tinkered with 295 head, HIF38 on a Howley inlet.
It did chuck out 64 'nanas and 66 torques but I suspect a few of them have escaped...

The new one will be +100", Piper 255 timed to specs, IWIS chain with tensioner, CST 295 cut to suit cr, maybe 1.3 rockers.
Torques are the name of the game with that one.

Metric is for people who can't do fractions.

I think dry decking is more about equalising rather than lowering temps
Id rather know all the coolant is circulating not just sitting in the fly wheel/back end

The fix if you don't want a dry deck tho would be a no bypass pump/head and the heater takeoff plumbed into the top hose

Have you done the standard cooling mods for a 998?

Like front 2 water ports closest to the water pump blocking them off, also grinding a little bit out between cylinder 1 and the side of the block. Keith Calver covered it in a Mini Mag Issue a while back