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mini93

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Warwick.

Howdy,

Just looking for some advice on some fiberglass doors im trying to fit, knowing some of you are quite the fans of plastic fantastic cars, and weight loss im sure some will be able to give me pointers.

So far, I have only offered up the doors to the car, keeping the bottom edge an equal distance from the sill all the way along. Basicly, it doesnt fit at the points where I need it.
Im going to assume part of the problem is seeing as they are so old, but unused (2nd hand) part marked from Curley at 2006.
It seems like the frame can be pushed/flexed back into the desired position but of course springs back, so maybe it was leant against for a long period of time distorting it.
Some pics to do the talking...


I was able to to put a spacer between the frame here and it sat well, albeit a little low on the rear edge.


Big gaps on the back and top edges.

Does anyone have advice to fix this?
Should I just wait till I have the polly windows and use these to manipulate the frame into its final position? This probably wont look over-all perfect but suitable for what I need from the car.
Or is it better if I just hack the frame and fiberglass in a section to lengthen/shorten as required.

Cheers folk.

Edited by mini93 on 21st Jun, 2014.

David.


Paul R

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Swindon

oversize the windows use them to spread out into the correct space.

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madmk1

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brookwood woking

You need Genuine carbon fibre doors mate.

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Nothing is impossible it just costs more and takes longer.

On 1st Nov, 2007 Ben H said:
There is no such thing as 'insignificant weight saving', it all adds up.


Carlzilla

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Quarry Bonk


You'd have to weigh them down with the poly windows otherwise they might float away*laughing*

On 21st Jun, 2014 madmk1 said:
You need Genuine carbon fibre doors mate.

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


mini93

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Warwick.

haha they are some grade of carbon! not sure if its genuine or not.
They are pretty damn light though. Upon seeing the fittment, I was considering using my butchered steel doors, but upon picking them up against the fg/carbon skin ones, it made my mind up sharpish. Just got to get them to fit.

David.


Carlzilla

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Quarry Bonk

Might be worth cutting a small notch out behind the front part of the frame, pull the frame back in the right place and resin it back up?

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


mini93

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Warwick.

Ok, I have another question on this now, the door, with a little bit of shaving of the door will fit in the gap.

So I bought some new door seals to assist in fitting up, but all I've found so far is they are a massive pain in the ass.
I expected them to be a little stiffer, but they arent allowing the door to sit back. The fg door frame is a lot more flexable than the steel old one so when I go to close the hung door its just bending out at all positions.
I have even tried fitting old door seals to no success.
Has anyone else with FG doors got a solution?, I imagine some will just run without seals at all, but I think it just provides a neater finish

David.


graemec

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Carnforth, Lancs

Cut the seals so they are just a seam finisher?


vegar

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Norway

Whats happening to that roll cage?? I'm sorry, but that main roll bar looks no good

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mini93

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Warwick.

Nothings happened to the cage, its a manufactured bend

David.


Tupers

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South Devon

Half the problem with FG doors is that thy will only fit as well as the steel door that the mould was taken from.

Some sort of D section foam seal stuck onto door frame might work as a substitute for a standard seal. It tends to be a lot softer than rubber so should push the door out. http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/d-section


theoneeyedlizard

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Essex

I think Vegar is referring to the vertical bar on the opposite side of the car. It looks dented etc, but is probably overspray?

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mini93

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Warwick.

that colour inconsistencies are from when it was blasted, numerious getting ins and outs of the car, dirty hands etc. Its certainly not dented.

I jumped into the garage after work and found cutting the seal down on only the leading edge of the door has allowed the door to sit in. This should still allow at least a bit of a seal for the doors and look at least a little decent

David.


vegar

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Norway

I am referring to the fact that the roll bar is angled backwards and have an kink in it. A roll bar is supposed to be as vertical as possible with as little bends as possible. If that ends up on the roof, you have already made the roll bar weaker and it can fold in like a pocket knife

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mini93

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Warwick.

Its not a kink, a kink is deformation of the tube. Its a bend, normal in diameter.
And I best go tell Rollcentre they got their cage wrong, dispite the fact the cage was homologated since circa 1994. I you dont like it, dont have one

David.


vegar

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Norway

Sorry, did not intend to step on any toes, it was just an observation :)

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mini93

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Warwick.

I appreciate the concern non the less, but its something that has proven to be fine before.
The shells an Ex-rally car and has infact been rolled before

Edited by mini93 on 3rd Jul, 2014.

David.

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