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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Starter Motors and Starting!

slater

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1030 Posts
Member #: 1291
Post Whore

Suffolk / Birmingham

Right guys this is a bit of a two pronged question. Car is now running, driving and completed a 150mile road test today without any major problems. Biggest problem i do have its its an absolute bitch to start especially when hot.

I have decided a hi torque starter is on the shopping list as at best you get a couple of chances to start it before the battery starts to die and your facing an uphill struggle (and this is having tried several more then ample sized batteries!) Im looking at fitting a lightweight battery so the weight saving of the motor and less current draw will be welcome anyway.. Big question is do i get the Minispares/MED/Swifty one for £160-180 or is the Brize one better for a little more money? Is it better?

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/...k%20to%20search

http://www.brise.co.uk/Austin-Mini-Cooper-M892910PGR.html


Secondly can anyone give any advice how to map the Typhoon ECU to get rid of the starting issues? Id say its a bit advanced and needs more fuel. I see its got tables i can change cranking fuel/sparks in relation to temperature but is there any other settings in there i should be looking at? Im not that experienced with ECUs and so far my playing about hasn't yielded much improvement!


BENROSS

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9812 Posts
Member #: 332
Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

bad earth ??

is the standard starter goosed, faulty ? drawing too much current ?

too much advance in the starting range,maybe ?

a low compression turbo motor will not benefit from a hi torque starter, so dont waste your money there

is it stalling or .... does it just keep winding over ?






slater

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1030 Posts
Member #: 1291
Post Whore

Suffolk / Birmingham

It's a NA motor at 10.5:1 so reasonably high compression. The starter never struggled on the standard motor so don't think there's anything wrong with it as such. It's just not up to the job.


I think it is too advanced but was hoping there might be Somone else on here who's got one of these ecus that could advise the best procedure for setting it up. I'm not 100% where You actually set advance while cranking etc..


apbellamy

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16540 Posts
Member #: 4241
King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

The coolant temp and cranking tables are multipliers of your base fuel and ignition map, so be very careful with them.

Chances are you need to adjust these. Bit of a pain to do the temp based one. I would start with the cranking table and a hot engine and get that starting well.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Ben H

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Member #: 184
Senior Member

Melton Mowbray, Pie Country

The coolant temp table is really for cold starting not hot starting. You need to concentrate on the cranking table.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.


slater

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1030 Posts
Member #: 1291
Post Whore

Suffolk / Birmingham

I think ive got it now. There is only the one table for cranking. It shows Crank Counts along the top and temp ranges down the side. Im assuming to adjust your hot starting you just alter the count in the 80-100C range and your cold starting the 10-20C range etc.. I assume the number in the box is a multiplication of the base map, not too sure, but it is clear that the higher the number the more fuel it puts in!

As for advance it is very simlar except it isnt really clear if a higher number in the box retards or advances. I assume it will advance it but It wont allow negative numbers so that scuppers using it to retard on cranking.. Maybe i just need to retard at idle in the main map!

Will try some f this out tomorrow.

No opinions on which starter is best? Think im just going to go with the cheaper option as that seems to be what most people have and my dad has one on his race car that works just fine.


apbellamy

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16540 Posts
Member #: 4241
King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

Yes, the cranking table is a multiplier of the base fuel map. Haven't messed with the ignition side too much so can't really comment on that.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*

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