1098 engine test na
Turbo Mini Forums

hi all. some questions about a 1098 engine

so here is the story. the mk1 of the wife was fit with a 850 engine. on some point the 850 engine was converted from magic wand to remote ( not original box) the 850 is shot because it was stored in a moist box for 5 years until i bougt it.

now since the welding is nearly done ( and hopefully the car keeps it shape now all metal is back in) i was thinking about the engine. i have a few engine's around but most are 1275... i also have a 998 and 1100 in spares....

after long thinking i decided to use the 1100 because of it will go well with the original style of the car ( nice slow torky engine)

but here is the deal....

i bought the engine 7 years ago. i did hear it running on an engine stand but thats it.
it stoot in my garage for 2 years with a head on and till now without a head ( yet got stored dry and dust free)

the questions:

how do i test if the rings are still worth something? ( engine does move free) can i fill the bores with light ( 15w40) oil and see if it stays? or isnt that a good indication?

what would be the best head to put on it ( i have a 295 and something cant remember) ?

is there anything else to check if the engine is any good to use?

last but not least... do to import regulations i need the 850 tag on the 1100 engine... what rivets should i use?

thanks on forehand for all the answer to my non turbo engine questions.

Edited by Rammie2000 on 23rd Sep, 2014.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

a 1071 isnt an 1100...

1100 is 1098cc, and a long (84mm) stroke version of the 998 small bore.

1071 is a largbore with a short (68mmish), fore runner to 1275

okey my bad. its a 10 h so 1098 cc i'll change it.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Rivet wise, I have before now been able to remove the original rivets from one block and re use them. Nothing like aged rivets to match the aged number plate. You can buy new ones, but they are nice shiney and draw your attention to them.

If you have a few blocks you should be able to get a couple of rivets out in good condition. I use a blunt chisel and gently start knocking the head of the rivet from the side all the way round. Once they start moving, they start to lift. Once they have lifted enough you can get a couple of screwdrivers under the head and start to lever them up. They kind of wind out as they have a twisted shank.

Hope that helps

Edited by Sprocket on 23rd Sep, 2014.

owkey. someone on the engine testing? how much play can it have to hone it and put new rings on it without buying new oversize pistons ( if it is needed) and what is a good diy kit to hone?

greets

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

so did some oil in the bores this morning. 2 out of 4 have let all oil trough so no good. now i have a hone liner available from a mate ( one like http://www.tools.vocor.nl/index.php?action...000030&lang=NL) but would like to know if it is worth a hone or needs a bore. how much play may i have between the piston and the bore to make it with a hone or if i have to bore.

second... where do i find rings for a 1098? if i look at minispares i only find overbore size's. or can i use 998's? http://www.minispares.com/search/classic/p...ing%201100.aspx

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

piston to bore clearance really depends on the piston design and material even machining methods, its usually specified by the manufacture
but i will look up the haynes measurement if it has one

as for the rings 998s are same bore but im not sure on the pistons, ideally they need a part number or to be measured properly

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

10H:
Compression rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.178 to 0.305 mm
Oil control ring:
Rails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.305 to 0.711 mm
Side springs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.54 to 3.81 mm

not quite the measurement you want, these ones involve putting a piston ring in the bore and measuring the gap
however its still only going to be a ball park figure i would have though

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Not the ones i was after how ever... for a hone the pistons need to come out ( as for new rings) so i would be able to measure it like that.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018