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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Poor Brake pedal

bakker110

313 Posts
Member #: 9367
Senior Member

Derby

I recently re-bled my whole system with new discs and pads in the front, a new master cylinder and addition of braided hoses to the rear but I can't seem to get a firm pedal on first push. It travels a really long way. It gets much firmer if pressed again immediately afterwards.

I don't think there is air in the system but could it be that my master cylinder isn't holding enough fluid or up to the job.

I am running it on a single line system and have the Minispares new Cooper S master (0.70"), Minisport 4-pot calipers up front, and rear drums (1/2" bore wheel cylinders I think). I also have a brake bias level fitted.

It always used to lock the rears first hence me fitting the bias (rather than change to the 3/4" cylinders) and changing the system over while I did a few other bits.

Does anyone reckon it could be solved using a 1" master with a separate reservoir as I have an AP one I could use.

Thanks


Joe C

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12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

sounds like the rear shoes need adjusting?

also wedging a peice of wood between the steering wheel and pedal to keep it down hard overnight can sometimes work wonders.


apart from that how are you bleeding it? I have found the easy bleeds are a bit crap unless you pump the pedal to assist them. my orefered method is a long length of fish tank air tubing going back to the master cyl, you can then pump away to your harts cointent with the nipple wide open, with the high fluid flow like this it is good at pulling through any stubbon air pockets. plus you can see the air going past in the tube.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Brett

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9502 Posts
Member #: 1023
Post Whore

Doncaster, South Yorkshire




On 8th Oct, 2014 Joe C said:
my orefered method is a long length of fish tank air tubing going back to the master cyl, you can then pump away to your harts cointent with the nipple wide open, with the high fluid flow like this it is good at pulling through any stubbon air pockets. plus you can see the air going past in the tube.

i think i will be employing this method when the time comes, my easyblead is hard work ( but makes a 2 man job manageable by 1 )

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


wil_h

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9258 Posts
Member #: 123
Post Whore

Betwix Harrogate and York

Have you put the calipers on upside down? Bleed nipple should be at the top. If it's at the bottom, no amount of bleeding will resolve your problem.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph



On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


bakker110

313 Posts
Member #: 9367
Senior Member

Derby

Nope they are definitely the right way up


1275grimsby

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147 Posts
Member #: 10874
Advanced Member

Grimsby




On 8th Oct, 2014 Joe C said:


apart from that how are you bleeding it? I have found the easy bleeds are a bit crap unless you pump the pedal to assist them. my orefered method is a long length of fish tank air tubing going back to the master cyl, you can then pump away to your harts cointent with the nipple wide open, with the high fluid flow like this it is good at pulling through any stubbon air pockets. plus you can see the air going past in the tube.


What an excellent idea! Im trying that!

mine: http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=570945

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