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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Line boring advice needed | |||||||
696 Posts Member #: 10034 Post Whore Birmingham |
20th Oct, 2014 at 02:01:48pm
Engine had 100k miles on it, and the main bearings failed due to high revs, bad lubrication (oil too hot) and and a cluch that was out of balance (one of the verto spring fingers had snapped off and was rattling around inside). Front and centre main straps are "ok"; back strap is a slightly tight fit when the alignment dowels are in place, and had a black, scorched look to the surface when dismantled.
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882 Posts Member #: 9774 Post Whore Buckinghamshire |
20th Oct, 2014 at 02:31:29pm
Can't comment on the cost of line boring but Coventry Boring and Metalling were the cheapest I found for other engine work, I had them fit a liner and bore the block and they did a good job of that.
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=469104&fr=0 |
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12307 Posts Member #: 565 Carlos Fandango Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex |
20th Oct, 2014 at 02:34:00pm
line bores/hones always seem to be pricey, 200 sounds in the right ball bark On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged... Joe, do you have a photo of your tool? http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1 https://joe1977.imgbb.com/ |
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1394 Posts Member #: 1346 Post Whore bromsgrove |
20th Oct, 2014 at 04:39:00pm
Try mja engineering in bromsgrove martin can do most things |
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3673 Posts Member #: 9300 Post Whore Quarry Bonk |
20th Oct, 2014 at 04:52:26pm
Drop me a PM i have a guy i use who you could try. On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!! 17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine) |
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16540 Posts Member #: 4241 King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner Rotherham, South Yorkshire |
20th Oct, 2014 at 05:19:38pm
Does it matter what it costs? Surely the halfwhit that fucked it up will be paying to sort it out. On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it |
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412 Posts Member #: 9766 Senior Member Warwickshire |
20th Oct, 2014 at 05:21:47pm
Southam mini and metro centre 01926 815681 they sorted mine. I know they were really cautious who they used Avon 2010 class c 3rd
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389 Posts Member #: 9751 Senior Member Derbyshire |
20th Oct, 2014 at 06:01:36pm
I used service garage in ockbrook derby, although I had new pistons they wanted everyone so they could match the tolerance on each bore to each piston. I only paid £120 also. I was very impressed. |
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4300 Posts Member #: 1321 Post Whore Wiltshire |
20th Oct, 2014 at 06:59:18pm
Id get a new block. Especially as your in a worse place then before you started. On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding |
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11046 Posts Member #: 965 Post Whore Preston On The Brook |
20th Oct, 2014 at 07:17:48pm
My machinist uses a place in St Helens for line boring. Made a good job of mine. Look at MED or Swiftune as it might be worth the little extra for a full set of steel caps along with the line bore On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be... So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'... On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........ |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
20th Oct, 2014 at 07:42:53pm
On 20th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
The rear-most strap has been sanded down badly(it doesn't sit flat), and they didn't insert the alignment dowels for any of the straps when they honed it Are you serious about the cap being "sanded" down and the sleeve dowels not being fitted ? If so I would name and shame loudly. If the bores of the block/caps have gone oversize or oval on any engine the repair needs to be taken seriously. Done properly the caps would be milled (flat) and fitted with the sleeve dowels to give an undersize hole for line boring/honing. But it adds lot off issues, especially on the Mini as it inevitably moves the crank centreline up in the block. Not too bad on a conventional engine but puts the primary gear out of centre in the oil seal and, more importantly IMO, reduces the engagement with the idler gear. If it's for high performance, I would look for another block. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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11046 Posts Member #: 965 Post Whore Preston On The Brook |
20th Oct, 2014 at 08:08:32pm
On 20th Oct, 2014 Rod S said:
Not too bad on a conventional engine but puts the primary gear out of centre in the oil seal and, more importantly IMO, reduces the engagement with the idler gear. This is true, but easily managed. On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be... So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'... On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........ |
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8297 Posts Member #: 408 Turbo Love Palace Fool Aylesbury |
20th Oct, 2014 at 08:10:38pm
I can recommend Coventry boring, we use them for most of our boring at work. Paynes near Oxford is another place, but they seem a bit hit or miss on quality.
Edited by matty on 20th Oct, 2014. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel
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1767 Posts Member #: 9165 Previously josh4444 Australia, brisbane |
20th Oct, 2014 at 08:25:43pm
having been a sucker to a bad shop myself i feel your frustration man
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696 Posts Member #: 10034 Post Whore Birmingham |
20th Oct, 2014 at 08:58:49pm
On 20th Oct, 2014 Rod S said:
On 20th Oct, 2014 PhilR said:
The rear-most strap has been sanded down badly(it doesn't sit flat), and they didn't insert the alignment dowels for any of the straps when they honed it Are you serious about the cap being "sanded" down and the sleeve dowels not being fitted ? Two of the caps have a surface finish similar to the mating face on the block, machining line running in-line with the crank; The end cap now has sanding marks running perpendicular to the crank, maybe 120 -240 grit. When torqued down, there is clearly daylight showing through the end facing the crank tail. When I picked up the block, the 6 dowels were still threaded onto the tie-wrap, just I'd given them. Assembling the block a month later, shows sight rub marks on the sides of the centre and front bearings and the rear bearing just locked up. The straps were borderline when I gave them the block, so for £30 I asked them to see if they could hone them back into shape before putting any time / money into the block. I was anticipating that it may need boring, but I'd like to think that someone with their wits about them could have saved it. The mistake is done now, I've got way too much going on right now to turn this into a drama; I just need to get this fixed be someone who knows what they're doing so I can get this fixed this side of winter. Thanks for the suggestions so far, keep them coming if you've got any ideas. I'm going to continue phoning around tomorrow. |
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696 Posts Member #: 10034 Post Whore Birmingham |
20th Oct, 2014 at 09:05:34pm
Apart from skimming, can they build them back up with weld, or bore them oversize and fill them with spacers? - Need to know what options there are so I'm not put on the spot and make the wrong decision if options are offered Edited by PhilR on 20th Oct, 2014. |
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11046 Posts Member #: 965 Post Whore Preston On The Brook |
20th Oct, 2014 at 09:41:39pm
Find another block..... On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be... So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'... On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........ |
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8297 Posts Member #: 408 Turbo Love Palace Fool Aylesbury |
20th Oct, 2014 at 10:10:43pm
Too be honest not much can be done that'll be cheaper than starting again with another block. Especially in a hurry. The main thing that needs to be determined is how much has been bored out of the block side, and if its still been bored on centreline of caps.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel
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3004 Posts Member #: 2500 Post Whore Buckinghamshire |
21st Oct, 2014 at 05:57:07am
Don,t mess around any more just get another block - it should be cheaper than paying to (maybe) fix yours. |
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5988 Posts Member #: 2024 Formally Retired Rural Suffolk |
21st Oct, 2014 at 07:37:38am
On 20th Oct, 2014 PhilR said: Re. the "sanding" marks, if they are perpendicular and dead straight, it's possible they put the cap on a surface grinder with a badly dressed wheel rather than milling it (the wheel would have to be in very poor condition though for the depth of marking you suggest).
The end cap now has sanding marks running perpendicular to the crank, maybe 120 -240 grit. When torqued down, there is clearly daylight showing through the end facing the crank tail. Re. the daylight, try torquing it down without the sleeve dowels, they may have taken too much off the cap face and the dowels are bottoming out in their holes (a long shot as, from memory, the clearance on the end of the sleeves is quite large). EDIT - typo Edited by Rod S on 21st Oct, 2014. Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ??? |
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696 Posts Member #: 10034 Post Whore Birmingham |
21st Oct, 2014 at 10:14:21am
Thanks for the suggestions all, I'm putting it away until next year and going to build up one of my 998 blocks |
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270 Posts Member #: 69 Senior Member Coventry |
21st Oct, 2014 at 10:19:01pm
coventry metalling and boring have an excellent reputation and I have used them 30 years, southam dont do line boring nor do MED. |
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