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Home > FAQ / Knowledge > Megajolt - A brief installation guide

Rob H

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Formerly British Open Classic

The West Country

I've used Fiesta leads on the British Open.

Isambard Kingdom Brunel said:
Nothing is impossible if you are an Engineer


metroturbo

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North Yorkshire

On that point, are there any off the shelf leads that have 90 degree spark plug connectors? I am using the Fiesta leads, but they aren't ideal on the Metro.

Edited by metroturbo on 24th Nov, 2008.


PaulH

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Dublin Ireland

I sell Lumenition leads that are custom made for the mini and Ford coil they have the nice 90 deg bend that the normal mini leads use

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

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gr4h4m

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Chester

how much?

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


PaulH

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Dublin Ireland

£48 inc P&P

On 17th Feb, 2009 Rob H said:

I find the easiest way is to super glue the bolt to the end of one of my fingers.

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adam1330

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essex

is it possible to make use of the 12v coil feed to power either the edis module or megajolt, or should i run new 12v feeds?
just wondering as i'm looking to get it fitted as soon as i get time.

Edited by adam1330 on 24th Jan, 2009.

““A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.”” - Jeremy Clarkson


hario

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That would be the easiest i guess.
Not sure if its fused?


adam1330

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essex

no its not fused, but that could be easily done.

““A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.”” - Jeremy Clarkson


gr4h4m

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Chester

I ran the two + wires back to the same point and fused them.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


miniboo

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Las Vegas, Brit in the States

when i had mine i used the original dizzy + feed


gr4h4m

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Chester

anyone had any issues with everything freezing and the tacho dropping to zero when driving? We have two cars doing it mine running a supercharger and a mates running N/A? The only way we can fix it is to close the plug gap or change the plugs. We have tried NGK, NGk Iridium's, Champions and now Bosh super4's. 6's and 7's????

Anyone else had this issue? Its like the car is shutting off...

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


jbelanger

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Montreal, Canada

Are you using resistor plugs? The EDIS module require resistor plugs to work correctly.

Jean

http://www.jbperf.com/


gr4h4m

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Chester

I was using NGK BKR7EIX which stopped the issue for a few hundred miles then it came back this morning when we were going for a club run so I got some bosh super 4's from Halfords as it was the only place open this morning and the problem went away again.

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


Rob Gavin

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Glasgow

quick question - is the EDIS module etc used on the valencia engine in the KA? all the earlier fiascos are gone from my local scrappies
cheers


Rob


evolotion

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Glasgow, Scotland

have you got the suppressor fitted between the +ve (centre) pin on the coil pack and secured to a good earth (i.e. the engine block)?? this stops most interferenece / resets/anomalies

Edited by evolotion on 13th Mar, 2009.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


richminiturbo.

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Horndean - Near Portsmouth




On 22nd Feb, 2008 Rob H said:
Just realised that the Ford colours are different to the MJ wiring diagrams:



So from left to right:

1 Blue White - MJ PIP signal
2 Green - Not Used
3 Blue Red - MJ SAW signal
4 Brown - Not Connected
5 Blue Yellow - VR Sensor
6 Blue Green - VR Sensor
7 Brown - Ground
8 Black - 12V from fuse box
9 Brown - Ground
10 Green Red -Coil
11 Not connected as Standard (I modified mine with a white & black wire) - Rev Counter
12 Green Yellow - Coil


EDIT got my numbering backwards, sorry about that all fixed now.

The key thing is that on Fords brown is ground and black is +12v where as on Minis brown is 12+ and black is ground.




Been looking an ID'ing the bits on my EDIS/Megajolt today, Rob has described the same colouring/layout as the one I seem to have, as im aware there a few different setups like Gav has been discussing a while back.

Anyway, a few questions if you dont mind, wiring isnt my forté (i dont think anything is my forté), so please bear with me!! Im sure its simple to you guys but I need a bit of spoon feeding haha:

Question #1 - The sheileded PIP/SAW wire that goes to the MJ unit, has a brown wire going into it (total of 3 inside the core), I ignore the brown and connect the other two for PIP/SAW correct? There's a piggyback brown/earth coming out of the PIP/SAW bundle of joy, but I assume this is the earth for the sheild yes?



Question #2- The VR sensor wires - self explanatory, +ve and -ve for the sensor and a piggyback earth for the core again if im not mistaken?



Question #3 - The "sheild" around the outside of the "sheilded wires" is earthed on those piggyback jobby's, would it be ok if I joined both of these earths (from the pip/saw and VR sensor sheilds), to the main earth that comes out the EDIS unit and take all 3 straight to body?


Question #4 - The shielded wires again, I connect the corresponding wires "inside", together as normal with solder, any tips on connecting the two ends of the outer sheilds together?



Question #5 - I have a blank on the plug where the rev counter output should be. Can I take the revcounter signal from anywhere else or will it have to be from here? If so, how should I modify the plug/unit so I can take the signal from it?



Sorry for the simpleton'ness!


SumpNut
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Milton Keynes

Question #1 - Yes spot on



Question #2- Yes you are spot on again



Question #3 - I personally connected them to pin 7 of the EDIS moduel, but I see no reason why connecting it to any or as many earths as you want wouldnt help


Question #4 - If you mean how to connect the sheilds to the piggyback earth wire I just soldered them together and heatsrinked it.



Question #5 - You can take at output from the megajolt unit itself.


richminiturbo.

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Horndean - Near Portsmouth

Wicked, thanks SupNut!

Should be set to fit it all tomorrow now, got all the wires I need!

Yeah I meant the actual copper core than goes around the outside of the insulated wires (between the outer insulation and the smaller gauge wires inside). I figured winding the two ends togother would be ok but i'll solder round the outside and heatshrink like you say.

With regards to taking the output for the revcounter from the MJ unit itself, how is this done?


stefaz

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stoke-on-trent

there is a specific pin output for that mate...pin in the corner next to the pip...see tom fentons post on page 2 of this thread

On 23rd Oct, 2009 sim_ou_nao said:

eu gosto de mamas = i like boobs


richminiturbo.

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Horndean - Near Portsmouth

Cheers Ant^^

Another quick question, the 12v from the coilpack and the 12v from the EDIS module, can they be linked together and taken to the fusebox as one? Theyre switchable (ign) 12v's right?


richminiturbo.

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Horndean - Near Portsmouth

Guys like above, im still unsure of this!!

Checked out autosportslab website and found this too:



As you can see it has "Coil Power" and "+12v".

Does this mean, that the 12v from the coilpack, and the 12v from the EDIS unit have to go seperately to the megajolt plug?

As at the moment, i have linked the 12v from the coilpack with the 12v coming out the EDIS unit.


mini93

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Warwick.

the 12v is a live supply to the unit, from a switched feed, you take a live to the edis and a live to the MJ. when you solder in the rev limiter you do away with the live feed going to the coil pack instead you use the coil power* wire, so instead of getting a 12v feed straight to the coil pack your giving the coil pack a 12v feed via the megajolt with its now inbuilt rev limiter.
i installed mine this weekend but have yet to work out the softwear n get the rev limiter working, im setting myself a 4000 limit while running in so i dont tempt myself more than i already am

David.


stefaz

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stoke-on-trent

Just following on from this...where is the rev limiter output wired to if you wire the coil power* to the coil?

On 23rd Oct, 2009 sim_ou_nao said:

eu gosto de mamas = i like boobs


joeybaby83

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Isle of Man

just to update this a little, what software are people using nowadays?

gonna whack a mj v3 tps on the 'rally' car over the coming weeks and doing a bit of homework..

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"



minimole23

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Wiltshire

Could someone just clarify something for me please.

When installing the trigger sensor, if the engine is at top dead centre and the bracket 90 degrees before, will the missing tooth effectively need to be opposite the tdc, to enable it to be 9 leading teeth before the sensor. Or when the engine is at tdc should the missing tooth be aligned with trigger sensor.

Sorry to sound so stupid, but reading round I seem to find information which seems to indicate either scenaro.

Edited by minimole23 on 21st Aug, 2010.

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding

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