Cast iron plugs for k1200
Turbo Mini Forums

Hello, The SC build guide says to use cast iron to plug the holes in the deck funny thing is cast iron rod is not available. I was thinking of using pipe plugs as they come in cast iron. thing is though is they are ressesed on the underside so not suitable for plugs what have you guys done? Aaron

Racecar spelled backwards is Racecar

I used M16 high tensile steel bolts and loctite permanent retainer for mine, although it was a garage build. It's been in for a few years now, cooked it a couple of times on the track (by accident ). Not had a problem with it yet. I even reused the bmw head gasket for shake down testing and never got around to fitting a new one.
I can see why they suggest cast iron, as the block is so things expand at the same rate. I'm pushing 16 psi boost too.
I've got away with it so far.................

Here's a couple of pics of my 'DIY ' build

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you can get cast iron bar stock but you need a lathe to size it , and its is quite expensive.

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/30mm-Fo...ng-8947893.html

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

Anyone with a lathe fancy a project? I have been thinking about this too lately.

I used cast iron bar. You need 5 mins on a lathe to turn it down and thread it but nice and easy.

Its worth noting you only really need cast for the stud holes. I used it to ensure the new threads cut evenly. If you use steel i think they would be a chance they wouldn't cut too accurately. For the other holes you can use brass.

Is this what your after?
https://www.colglo.co.uk/product.php?product=BS143G1565

Available in various sizes

I think Paul S tried malleable iron a few years ago and it was soft.

Just been up to see a mate of mine that has his own engineering company. Hes putting together two K head conversions at the moment. I asked him about cast iron plugs. Hes shook his head and said no. Apparently cast iron would end up with tiny cracks in it. He said its better to use steel and then peen it. What ever peening it means. :)

Dont agree, what would make it 'crack' and why would it not make the existing threads in the block 'crack'?

I havent a clue mate Im just going on his responce to this question. I'll ask him next time I see him.

I thought you used cast iron plugs so that when you re-drill a hole that overlaps a plug and the block you are drilling into the same meterial, which helps stop the drill from wondering. Same theory when taping the threads.

we have cast iron repair plugs in australia that are called A and B plugs, (A plug is one size and the B plug is Larger, Cant remember the sizes) they are tapered and you drill and tap the hole and then insert the plug with some loctie(glue), cut the plug off with some still sticking out, then using a ball peen hammer you basically peen the plug down to the surface, the after that you machine it flat, this was how i was shown to crack reapair cast iron, it works and seems to last a very long time, i dont know if you guys in the uk have this or do this but i think that this will help the the K conversion

everybody likes free stuff

It's probaly more akin to cast maleable "steel" instead of a cast "grey iron".

Edited by TurboDave16V on 25th Nov, 2014.

Ha ha ha, I havent got a clue what you just said. You may as well of said fugly wugly digly daggerly. It would have meant as much to me :)

Lucky I have an engineer carrying out the modifications for me :)

I kinda get what you mean really but it is a little over my head. :)

Ha ha brilliant

Sorry for going over everyones head. it explains it a bit better here it also has some pics of the plugs used, like turbodave16v said from memory its cast maleable "steel".

sorry for the way i explained it,

everybody likes free stuff

What is that book / manual? Looks interesting...

As an aside, Other names are "ductile iron" and "black iron".
Regardless, the easy wa to check is to file or machine your sample material. Cast iron will turn to dust. What you want is something that makes "chips".
Another method is to cut a small corner off, and beat it with a hammer against a solid steel plate or surface. If it flattens, its ductile - if it falls apart, it's plain grey iron, and DEFINATELY NOT what you want to use for your inserts.

hey TurboDave16V

its the REPCO engine Service manual.
theres an updated version call the ACL engine service manual. its the same stuff in a different book.

Repco is a parts store now but back in the early days they had engine machine shops all over Australia, they made everything from push bikes, tyre balancer machines, bore and honers, all differnet stuff they aslo did F1 racing Brabham-Repco etc. have a look at wikipedia about them its mainly all there racing stuff, they still use this book at trade school. its old but the methods in it work.

heres a pic of the front cover


i also have another old engine book form 1938 which is pretty good read if want to see how they did alot of things back then,

everybody likes free stuff

Hi guys, when plugging the oil.and water holes, is there a specific thread you need to consider ?

My reasoning is that if some of the plugs need to be partially drilled and threaded to suit the new studs, then a fine thread might be more siutable.in terms of strength.

Also another concern is that of oil and water leaks through the thread between the plug and the hole. Do I need to worry about that ?

Hi guys, when plugging the oil.and water holes, is there a specific thread you need to consider ?

My reasoning is that if some of the plugs need to be partially drilled and threaded to suit the new studs, then a fine thread might be more siutable.in terms of strength.

Also another concern is that of oil and water leaks through the thread between the plug and the hole. Do I need to worry about that ?