Options for making it easier to get the head stud nuts on (and off) K1100
Turbo Mini Forums

I'm just curious what folks have done to make things easier for getting a socket on and off the nuts without having to lift the cams out

I'm thinking of putting the cam between centres on the lathe and simply machining the camshaft down in the areas around the studs.
Given how "spindly" some folks machine their "pump drive" shafts down to, there should be no issues with taking 8mm off the diameter using a form tool with a nice big radius.

Other option is to spot-face the washer mating surface to get the nut to sit lower... Maybe I'll do both LOL.

So, what other things are there to be done to make life easier?

Edited by TurboDave16V on 5th Dec, 2014.

Run KAD head for a few years , then change over to the BMW head, there job done and things just got a lot easier already.

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I machined my cams down and they have been ok.Only at the front ends where they are larger diameter to start with tho. Not sure if it gives enough clearance to get a socket in but stopped the nuts fouling.

Theres a lot more load going through a cam than a jackshaft remember!

what about using the std BMW head bolts?

Team Racing

Conisdering you only ever remove the head a few times, is it really such a task to pull the cams? Of course marking all your pullies for position is a must.

Most problems arise with the seal plate which can prevent the front bearing cap from being removed, and depending ob which kit is used you cannot remove the pullie adapter without removing the seal and or seal plate.

I use cap head bolts in place of the studs in the front bearing caps since the caps are located with dowels anyway. This along with being able to remove the pullies means you can whip the cams out without having to mess with the seal plate thus reducing mess time.

You could use Cooper S big end nuts shave 5mm of the tip of each stud along with reducing the cam diameter a little might be enough........

can you get a claw socket on them?

I've got some 12-point nuts which greatly helps the clearance (only a 7/16" drive).

I definitely don't want the ball-ache of disturbing the pulleys or the cams. I'm just going to machine the bare-minimum off to make it work.
Will also spot-face them a little more so I can use the nice factory (K) washers under the nuts.
If needs be, I'll make a custom socket (or a few so I have spares) that have a thin wall and profiled body to get around the cams.

Other thing I've decided on trying (and another reason for wanting to use the beemer washers) is to elongate the "front three" holes in the head, and use tube dowels to correct the position of the head so I don't have to move the studs in the block. I've got a custom super-long 7/16" three-flute that I'm going to use. If that doesn't work (may have too much flex - but should be ok plunging it really slowly), I'll just make a small boring bar, mount it in the criterion and machine it the old-fashioned way...

Edited by TurboDave16V on 5th Dec, 2014.

take a notch out the cams like an RB, tho i guess probably no stronger than just turning them down :)

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

why not just move the front 3 studs too dave?

Team Racing

No real reason other than it is definately stronger to leave them alone...

You may be able to get away using cap head bolts I stead of studs, and it would be easy to get an 8mm hex socket in there. i would only do this if the plugs in the block allow for a complete thread where the head stud/bolt screws in, and not half block half insert (if that makes sense)?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

how about some kind of caphead sleeve nuts ans shorter studs...

Ist that what Gregg Temkin did?

huh, apparently so!

Awesome

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

ooo I like those nuts

Team Racing

I already have some. They are too tall and interfere with the cams.

counterbore the head a bit?

If I remeber rightly, the K100 8v head, the two bolt recesses at the front of the head are deeper than all the others.

How does the BMW head bolt compare with the A series stud and nut in terms of strength? I plug all the holes in the head with 12.9 bolts so I have a good solid material which I'm fixing too

Team Racing

I say that if you envisage having to undo the fasteners repeatedly for what ever reason, either because it breaks, or like me you 'maintain' it, bolts stretch and wear the engaging threads and studs/nuts reduce/prevent the thread wear in the block and casings.

Motor manufacturers use bolts as they are cheaper, and will only ever be undone/ redone a few times in its sometimes 100k+ miles life.

studs are an engineers solution, bolts are an accountants solution.

I read that somwhere.