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Rammie2000

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1751 Posts
Member #: 10190
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belgium

where do you guys get your brake line's? i know i'm overseas but 2 years ago i bought 10 m for 20 pounds.

i want to make the brake's for my mk 1 and see that its now 38 pounds for 5 meters..........

so i think there would be cheaper to have them send from the uk or something rather then buy it local.

greets

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018


KLAS

89 Posts
Member #: 2380
Advanced Member

Hamburg, Germany

i buy CuNiFer (i don't like them rust again) brake line here: http://www.korrosionsschutz-depot.de/shop_...sleitungen.html
they also have all fittings needed
maybe worth a look


evolotion

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2909 Posts
Member #: 83
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Glasgow, Scotland

I just use copper line, its about a tenner for 5m,kunifer is supposed to be better and looks nicer, little harder to work tho but still way easier than steel. not much dearer too.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


Rammie2000

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1751 Posts
Member #: 10190
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belgium

i used to use copper to. have been looking at cunifer because i like the look. but not sure how my set would react to it. a tenner? 10 pounds? where do you get it?

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018


evolotion

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2909 Posts
Member #: 83
Post Whore

Glasgow, Scotland

just factors around here, about that on ebay too

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.


Chalkie

1909 Posts
Member #: 9764
Post Whore

Northamptonshire.

I've got steel and copper.

Also know seen you can get stainless steel pipes aswell.

Steel is a nightmare but if you have a proper brake line tool what mounts into a bench vice there alot easier to do.


Rod S

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5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

If you use plain copper, bear in mind it has very low resistance to fatigue compared to steel so should be supported better, especially in areas the pipes might vibrate.
Kunifer (which is a copper nickel alloy) is still not as good as steel for fatigue life but it is a lot better than plain copper.
In their annealed form both are easy to work but, because of the copper, both work harden quickly so get your bends, flares etc. right first time.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Rammie2000

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1751 Posts
Member #: 10190
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belgium

Its for the regular lines on the mk 1 first. Once budget commes back again i work further on the turbo. But on that one i would like to see the lines running inside of the car. How much would i need per car ( i stil have about 3 meters but can't remember how big that rol was when it was new. About 9 meters on each car?

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018


jonny f

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2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking

I used about 10M on my car with dual lines. You would get away with less but better to be safe. I think I messed up about 2M worth.

Also it's worth doing the longest pipes first! As you can't make them longer if you mess up but you can use those long bits elsewhere.


Rammie2000

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1751 Posts
Member #: 10190
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belgium

Okey. I'll look around on the bay then. Only one day of welding left..... i hope.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018


Rammie2000

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1751 Posts
Member #: 10190
Post Whore

belgium

Ps. I noticed some serious dents ( not deep but big in surface in a door and one side of the car...) aprox 0.5 cm deep but 30 on 30 big. Thought about welding some wire to the midle of it and heat up while pulling what you guys recon?

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

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