2 1/4" Exhaust
Turbo Mini Forums

I've bought a load of 2 1/4" exhaust pipes, bends and silencer and about to start cutting and welding.

Anyone had any major issues?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

tricky to get past the pot joint, i gave up and went with 2"

2" tube gave me about 1" total clearance close to the inner driveshaft pot. I think 2 1/4" would have just fitted, but I have a late front subframe with the extra holes to mount the engine 1/2" further forward. Other than that It might be a bit of a squeeze around the gear change?

MIG, TIG, Stainless, 304, 316? Is this a side mount turbo?

Edited by PhilR on 17th Dec, 2014.

I did expect to make up a special oval section piece to pass the pot joint, but I can get a 80 Deg bend through the gap with plenty of clearance.

I think mine is a later subframe, in fact, I know it is as it came of a 93 car.

It's all stainless stuff which I am going to TIG. Side mount turbo.

I plan on making a link pipe to the same shape as a 2" pipe that I have laying about. Hopefully will get past the shifter without going too low.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

i run that sort of size paul , not too bad a fit , but i do have the downtube sitting a bit lower than the tunnel face.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

It's a tight fit but I managed around the pot joint, although I lost patience in the tunnel so put the gear linkage inside the car gives all the room needed.

Plenty clearance for 2 1/4" if you use hardy spicer joints, move the engine forward to the late model position and straighten out/ cut off the lip on the subframe at the back

Just out of interest why did you go for 2 1/4" over 2" and where did you get the bends?

I personally went for 2 1/4" because I have a sports cat, mid section and rear box silencers, so trying to offset the increased total system resistance, the cat being the biggest plug in the leak

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

I can't comment on the 2 1/4" (as I used 2") but would highly recommend that company (Pipe Werx) as that's where I got my bits and their mandrel bends were very good quality.
They also do (or at least did back when I used them) a roller expanding service to make transition pieces and other strange things.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Well, it all fitted together OK. Just tacked at the moment but just enough clearance:

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."

worth trying it with the gearlever in there before final welding paul?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

I managed to fit 2.5" down pipe in mine. Although I will be running the gear linkage inside the car.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985