Removal of engine ancillaries
Turbo Mini Forums

'Advantage' mentioned removing the radiator fan in his Show Us Yours topic. Have any of you found any gain to removing any of those parts?

I had a Fiesta that had a water pump let go, and shed the accessory belt in the process. For the short distance I had to drive it home, it was really noticeable how much power was sapped by the power steering, water pump and alternator.

I'm thinking along the lines of electric oil pump, water pump, delete the fan + front mounted rad or suitable air ducting to a normal radiator and electric fan. You could have an alternator on a relay so that is disconnects and causes less drag when at full throttle.

Anything you can do will help. But remember that all the electric stuff adds load to the alternator.

My comment about the fan was based on keeping the car cool and reliable for track use. A front rad is the only solution to removal of he fan.

Water pump I'd consider changing to electric, but the oil pump is probably best left as it is.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

Anything that needs to be driven 100% of the time, and is proportional to engine speed (like oil pump, valves, etc, is best left to be driven by the engine.
Anything that is variable in nature (like cooling fan, water pump, may well make good candiates for converting to electric, but only if they are indeed variable...
Simple reason being that unless you are sprint racing and can remove an alternator (and so are gaining "free" hp by being able to drive the ancillaries off a battery charged by a different power source later), then the engine has to power an alternator (at 70% efficient at a guess) and then drive the electric motor (50% efficient at a guess) of your fan, which means you're actually wasting energy to drive these 100% of the time like the engine would.

Edited by turbodave16v on 1st Feb, 2015.

wow,,,
Seems I was wrong about alternator efficiency...
http://delcoremy.com/documents/high-effici...hite-paper.aspx
55% is more like it

Edited by PhilR on 2nd Feb, 2015.

i think the oil pump is best left driven by the cam imo altho be nice to free the hp up ive used a air cooled vw gear pump to move oil from 44 gallon drums before useing a power drill to drive it and dam its hard to hold the pump body and drill the thing wanted to wind you up if you restricted the flow in any way so i can amajin the tourqe losset to driveing them at 3-4krpm when your on red line..

i do like the idea of the alt on a cont actor to switch it off at a given throttle ie use ms to ground the contractor above 50% throttle or something

ive set the idle up on my mini with out any of the alt wireing conected then i conected the wireing and it was a big diffrence it bearly ran at idle i had to turn the ajuster up so im sure it whould be good to put the alt on a relay above x% throtle provided you have a good batt

If you use those electronic water pump controllers that alter the rate to control the temperature then there might be a saving.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph