fresh rebuild getting hard to turn over
Turbo Mini Forums

Like title say. Rebuilding a 1275 metro engine with total seal rings. Fitting the crank it turned normal (litke friction felt but normal ) then first piston in and torqued down it got a bit harder... second in and torqued i could no longer turn it on the cranck itself. Gad to put on the cranck pulley to turn it. Do get it turned but needs quit some efford. ( can turn it with one hand) Didn't do the to others yet ( ring tensioner broke.. cheap ebay thing ) but by the time they will be fit and expecting to go stiffer by the sale rate i think i only wil be able to turn it with the flywheel on.

On the bright side if i put it on my table and turn it the rings close up so well it sucks vacuum on the table... ( with a soft mat between it to avoid scratches )

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Have you had your crank reground?

No cranck whas like new. (Engine only had some 40000kms from new. New bearings all round though.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

take one conrod off at a time i might be a oversized bearing

Hm. I'll swap one round. They are glyco bearings. Std size. If i mesure them they are all the same thickness though.

How hard should a new build engine turn over?

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

its always worth doing a pre assy without the rings to check for crank tightness.

its always worth doing a pre assy without the rings to check for crank tightness.

I always trial fit the rods onto the crank before fitting the crank. You can check they turn freely and check side clearances at the same time.

I guess you have the rods on the right way round?

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1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi

Crank only torqued up, it should literally turn with only a finger and thumb, no effort at all.

Likewise a rod bolted to the crank and piston in bore ( no rings ) it should require no effort at all.

Once the rings are installed and piston in bore there will be some resistance.

You should certainly be able to turn the crank by hand with any single piston installed, and probably 2 installed.
After that it may require some extra assistance, but by no means should it be hard to turn at all.

The only time some effort would be required is with the head on and all valvetrain installed.

Edited by stevieturbo on 3rd May, 2015.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Cranck turned free. You can feel it is between bearings but thats it. Now i did the following.

Swapped bearings. No change.
Turned cap. No change.
Swapped bearings with turned cap. No change.
Then... i know i shouldn't do it but i noticed that all caps click together only this one needed effort and a tap to go together so took 4 caps i have from other rods and tryed them one by one. Till the 3th one just clicked together like the rest does... put bearing in torqued up and now i can turn it free by 1 hand with minimal effort.

Just wondering should i leave that cap on now...

Hope explainment makes sence

Edited by Rammie2000 on 3rd May, 2015.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

imo

take te crank and fit the rods like they should be in the block full tourqe settigns do this on the benck then pick the crank up from each end and the rods should fall down undewr there own weight if they done theres a problem..

if alls good and they fall under they own weight fit them gap your rings and fitn them into the block its normal for an engen to get a little tight whent he rings are in on a fresh build but if you cant turn it from the crank its to tight imo

pre assembly is key imo take the crank and rods build them up like they should go them pick the crank up rods should fall down as you lift it if not its to tight imo

imo when you assemble the pistons they should only get a wd40 coating of lube or simlar same for the cylenders oil tends to burn and not let the rings seal up fast like wd40 or simlar

Anyone thoughts on the cap if i could is good like that. Know it isn't its original one but works like its supposed to.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Anyone thoughts on the cap if i could is good like that. Know it isn't its original one but works like its supposed to.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

You cant just throw a random cap on and hope its ok. Take your rods to a machine shop, point out the problem rod, ask them to check and offer a solution. The machine shops i use have setups to hone rod big ends.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

If there is a problem with the rod, just replace the rod.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Rammie, you can't use the caps if you've mixed them up, even if they appear to turn freely.

Get a magnifying glass, and examine the machine marks at the rod / cap join.Look at both the internal hone marks and the machined sides - the scratches will only line up for the correct pair. A strong, non diffused light source helps (torch / clear incandescent spot light. If you have one, a polarising filter over the light might help also.

This takes a little time and patience, and I personally wouldn't trust anyone else but yourself to do it - It's too easy to bodge.

Edited by PhilR on 8th May, 2015.

Okey great tip there. So if those arent matching ill have to have it rehoned.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Take your rods and crank out.

Fit the caps to each rod feel with your finger nail for an edge. if it has one you know its wrong.

Do the same with the Mains. Fit them and feel for an edge where they join.

Once they all feel OK. Fit the Crank and Road back in the engine. And torque section down at a time checking for binding.

So start with Main Caps. Check for binding.

Then do Each Conrod checking between each one.

You may have a crushed locating ring, or an oval-ed cap.

Edited by MikeRace on 6th May, 2015.

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

I got them all out and back in again like said above. There is only one trouble maker. All the rest turns and rotates as it should. If i check it as you say none of the 2 caps ( neighter the one that was on there or the one i have on there now wich it does rotate with have an edge. Only the original one is binding up. ( even put together without being on the cranck it needs to be torqued to close up. Ill go and get a magnification glass like said. Also rang the machine shop so tomorrow they can mesure it for roundness. Did see that the bearings i tryed the original cap with have quit some rub marks one 1 side just from trying to turn it by hand ( yes they were lubricated)

So defo something going on there.

Maybe best to get the crank out to so they can mesure that one to?

Greets.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018