Is this clutch worn? Because it's started slipping
Turbo Mini Forums

Hello

I've got an rts clutch set up with a organic race and rally plate. It did about 5-6k perfectly taking stick and not slipping.

Now it's slipping and looks like this...










Doesn't look particularly worn? What would you recommend fitting now? Same again or the Minispares 5puk paddle

Edited by Custard on 20th May, 2015.

Dave the Cake

IMO the organic plates are CRAP! CRAP!

is that bottoming out on those big allens ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

looks bit of what of Robert says ,but also looks like theses oil in there

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

I'm using a 190mm organic and its held everything I've thrown at it.

What does the inside of the housing look like? Oily?

In the 13's at last!.. Just

Yes there is abit of oil in the bottom on the wok. I have quite high crank pressure as my breather tank kicks out quite abit of oily vapour. Maybe I need to enlarge it. The engine burns next to no oil though??

I Hadn't noticed the Allen key heads... I'll have a look tonight. Just weird the clutch was perfect for 6k now it slips under full boost which is only 16psi

Edited by Custard on 20th May, 2015.

Dave the Cake

It probably contaminated

1/4 Mile 14.3secs 96Mph Terminal 10psi of boost.


Fibreglass Parts? - http://www.tdkracing.co.uk/
Split Rims? - http://www.force-racing.co.uk/

Clutch looks too small diameter. And it also looks like it is getting clamped very unevenly

It just looks all wrong

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

Ok so I need a organic 190mm

Could those Allen heads be the cause of the uneven clamping?

I'll change the primary gear seal although it was new

Dave the Cake

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

The disc is about 6mm smaller than the flywheel friction surfaces. I agree with the uneven wear, which is worrying

I sand blasted the flywheel which is the reason for the strange finish. It's by damp and I would t really say oily, maybe the slight ring of dark oil? One side. I didn't clean anything.

I must admit I would expect to see something really chewed up if they were touching? But I'll look closer tonight.

I have the oil splash ring thing on there.... Dunno if that actually does anything to save the clutch plate

Dave the Cake

i think theres a fair bit worn off that by the depth of the slots in the friction plate (or lack of...)

6k is a fair amount of use for somthing like this, also its worth noting that the after market back plates are machined to give a bit more preload, so wouldnt be as prone to slipage on a worn plate.

I'd whack a new seal in as a matter or course, give everything a degrease and a slight sand of the friction surfaces, and a 190mm organic,

Have you a photo of the other side of the pressure assembly, something doen't look right from the reverse side for an RTS.

I agree with oil, classic discolourisation, but, as Joe says, have you actually measured the wear ??

The slots look very thin.

Just measure the overall thickness of the driven plate.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Thanks for the replys chaps

The plate measure 6.85mm thick I don't know what they are new though!

I've got a 190mm plate and new seal on order!
There is only a very slight mark on some of the Allen heads. But I'll grind abit off them to be safe.

Here's the top



Cheers

Dave the Cake

I think the plates are around 7.8,mm new, so thats quite a bit of wear.

Edited by Sprocket on 20th May, 2015.

BENROSS, what plate do you recommend?

So I've got the new 190mm plate, a new clutch seal and ground down those Allen key heads....

Now the clutch doesn't disengauge properly, goes into gear but with a small crunch...(shudders)
Just trying to get my head round why... Can anyone explain?

Dave the Cake

dragging on the unused bit of mating face?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

When I build an RTS clutch I always check the throw out of the assembled clutch on the bench before it's fitted to the engine. That way you know the problem is not with the clutch itself.

Have you set the throw out stop to 6.5mm with the new friction plate? If so, is the hydraulic circuit throwing out that 6.5mm?

Check the pressure plate isnt bottoming out on the bolts that replace the rivets on your rts. If they poke through to much they can cause it to bind

Robert I dressed the unused bit on the friction surfaces down so it was all flat.

The throw out stop is wound all the way in and there is still a 6.8mm gap, that's about the same as before, the stop has never really "stopped" on the wok so I must have about 6mm of travel on the release bearing.

I dunno if repositioning the slave cylinder closer to the clutch arm would do anything.

I have a metro cable arm btw.

Dave the Cake

Slater the bolts I cut down so they barely poke through 1mm so I don't think it would be that. Cheers

Dave the Cake