Page:
Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > This is linked to the thread 'Negative Camber'

1275min

186 Posts
Member #: 538
Advanced Member

Frimley, Surrey

So here are the photos from under the car.


1275min

186 Posts
Member #: 538
Advanced Member

Frimley, Surrey

Or not lol


1275min

186 Posts
Member #: 538
Advanced Member

Frimley, Surrey


1275min

186 Posts
Member #: 538
Advanced Member

Frimley, Surrey


1275min

186 Posts
Member #: 538
Advanced Member

Frimley, Surrey


1275min

186 Posts
Member #: 538
Advanced Member

Frimley, Surrey

Has any one on here got the equipment and knowledge to help with this, I'm willing to take it anywhere! *frown*


jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking

That large welded in section of box section in the drivers side tie bar does not look great this would worry me that something is a bit bent on the front end.

You need to take it somewhere who knows what they are doing with wheel alignment.

I would get a new set of adjustable tie bars, set them to the same length, put them on the car and check where the wheel sits in the arches. If it looks fairly close go to a proper wheel alignment place and get it set up. If it's miles out get on the phone to the last owner as that tie bar is a nasty bodge.

Edited by jonny f on 7th Jun, 2015.


Rod S

User Avatar

5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

Is that really a bit welded in ??? (passenger side surely Jonny ?)

It certainly looks like it from the photo and is clearly different to the other side.

Mine, which look like the same make, are solid square section there.


EDIT - just read the other thread and you say it is extended deliberately.

To me, that means something is seriously wrong, minor accident damage or misalignment should easily be within the range of normal adjustment.

And I'm surprised it passed the MOT, unless the rules have been relaxed, weld repairs (and that would include a modification) are not allowed on active suspension components, for obvious reasons.

Edited by Rod S on 7th Jun, 2015.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


1275min

186 Posts
Member #: 538
Advanced Member

Frimley, Surrey

Hi lads,

Yes it was me lol. I know it's not the correct thing to do. But to push the wheel back on the tie bar adjustment which was needed from the first laser set up the guys said it would not of been safe to leave as it ran out of adjustment which I checked and confirmed. The only safe way was to put this bit in. It's a bodge as you shouldn't need to do this I totally understand that but I can't see what's wrong with the car at all! I've owned it from 2000 and before that it was one lady owner. No reports of accident damage, I've had the car down to the shell for painting etc and all was fine.
Could it be a poorly built shell? I need a specialist wheel alignment place who has lots of experience with classic minis. Anyone got any numbers?


1275min

186 Posts
Member #: 538
Advanced Member

Frimley, Surrey

I've found these guys, bit of at reckon though!
http://www.tyreandtech.co.uk


Nick
Forum Mod

User Avatar

4828 Posts
Member #: 154
Post Whore

Midlands

The best place I know of is Dave Yardy, but he's up in Northampton. He'll be able to tell you exactly what's fucked and help sort it out though.

On 20th Oct, 2015 Tom Fenton said:

Well here is the news, you are not welcome here, FUCK OFF.


PhilR

User Avatar

696 Posts
Member #: 10034
Post Whore

Birmingham

On 7th Jun, 2015 1275min said:
... It's a bodge as you shouldn't need to do this I totally understand that but I can't see what's wrong with the car at all! ...

You need to find what ever is causing the problem; You haven't said what you've checked. In the Haynes manual there is a subframe alignment check procedure which would be a good place to start.

An honest wheel alignment shop that knows what they're doing wouldn't ignore the bodge or even attempt to set your car up as it currently stands.

Edited by PhilR on 7th Jun, 2015.


Rod S

User Avatar

5988 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

Have a read of this http://www.minispares.com/article/21A1091/...stable-tie-rods

It's what came with my ones (and yours look the same) and will give you an idea of what measurements should be.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


1275min

186 Posts
Member #: 538
Advanced Member

Frimley, Surrey

Phil, I completely agree.

Cheers


1275min

186 Posts
Member #: 538
Advanced Member

Frimley, Surrey

Northampton is closer than Lincoln :)


jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking

Ahh my mistake, yes passenger side!


1275min

186 Posts
Member #: 538
Advanced Member

Frimley, Surrey

I've messages Dave Yardy on FB so hopefully will get it booked in there.


robert

User Avatar

6752 Posts
Member #: 828
Post Whore

uranus

fascinating problem .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Joe C

User Avatar

12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Indeed,

I would grab a tape measure and measure a few bits.... side to side...

wheel base, tie rod length, floor length, bottom arm pick up point to tie bar pick up point... if its that far out you should find it pretty easy,

my moneys on the tie bar location being bent, or the tie rod being made too short...




On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/


Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > This is linked to the thread 'Negative Camber'
Users viewing this thread: none. (+ 1 Guests)  
To post messages you must be logged in!
Username: Password:
Page: