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Home > Beginners Tech > Block prep - Arp and main straps?

Tuctuc

51 Posts
Member #: 10894
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Lancashire

Been having a bit of a read on here, David vizards book, and listening to some advice around Arp and mainstraps prior to getting my block work done.
Engine is 1293 +20" 10cc omegas, Benross head, matty manifold and Gt1752 - aiming for a very reliable and usable 130hp with max 150.

My observations and choice is
1) I don't need a centre main strap
2) I need Arp head stud kit for clamping effectiveness, but std A+ rod bolts and main bolts will be fine.

Thoughts please?


jonny f

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2091 Posts
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Dorking

Main bolts, standard, rod bolts go ARP.


Joe C

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12307 Posts
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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

std mains bolts are fine, unless reving lots. in which case go for studs rather than bolts. I like to use swiftune maincap dowels, really nicly made and cheap!

A+ head studs and nuts are fine, but i think i remember somthing about repro ones being shite so only use old ones. I always drill the 10th and 11th stud holes big and use normal studs as per the front 5, and torque everything to 45 with lube. or follow the arp guide if using arps.

rod bolts... A+ are good, but i always use ARP, not worth running the risk for 80 quid IMO.




On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Will

167 Posts
Member #: 11091
Advanced Member

Moss europe do a main cap strap & bolts for £8
takes next to no machining to fit and adds alot of reliability and peace of mind
and as you're there anyway?

personally i'd spend the extra couple of ££ to not have to worry about it


apbellamy

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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

Rotherham, South Yorkshire

20" overbore. My word.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Tuctuc

51 Posts
Member #: 10894
Advanced Member

Lancashire




On 2nd Aug, 2015 apbellamy said:
20" overbore. My word.


That's why I only got a bag of swarf back! Arhh!


Will

167 Posts
Member #: 11091
Advanced Member




On 2nd Aug, 2015 apbellamy said:
20" overbore. My word.


no replacement for displacement
although i do hear the cylinder walls get abit thin *hehe!*


minimole23

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Wiltshire




On 2nd Aug, 2015 Will said:


personally i'd spend the extra couple of ££ to not have to worry about it


With the poor quality bolts supplied with many kits a lot of them probably weaken that area. get a strap from force racing if bothering at all. I won't be fitting one until turning over 7.5-8k

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


Tuctuc

51 Posts
Member #: 10894
Advanced Member

Lancashire

Thanks for the replies guys, in summary

1) I don't need a centre mainstream
2) go for ARP rod bolts and head studs, STD bolts on mains (I reasd somewhere ARP mains studs foul the gearbox webs)


PhilR

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Birmingham

Any idea on your red line? I destroyed an engine at 7000 rpm (very light loads while mapping ) in a very short time. Machining the strap shouldn't cost a lot (free for my last one) so if your redline is anywhere close to that, IMO it's a cheap and sensible precaution.

I've heard of some kits including grade 5 bolts instead of 8 ones.... Just check they have 6 dashes on the head, not 3, and all will be well. I've had straps that seem quite soft so tighten the bolts gradually, and if there's any sign they're making ind nts, then consider hardened washers.

Edited by PhilR on 2nd Aug, 2015.


Tuctuc

51 Posts
Member #: 10894
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Lancashire

Red line will be 6000rpm, absolute max 6,500


tadge44

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Buckinghamshire

So you say, but when the red mist descends.....


Chalkie

1909 Posts
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Northamptonshire.

Fit a soft hitting rev limter? That stop you over reving it. But after owning a mx5 the redline is best place to shift

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