Couple a turbo setup questions please
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi guys I've just joined the group, great site.
Hopefully you won't shun me when you find out I'm trying to turbo an MG Midget.
I'm from Australia so it's hard to get bits and info easily but I have just got my hands on a nearly complete Metro turbo engine to use all the factory bits I can. I want some reasonable power but a generally simple factory setup with a few tweaks.

If I heave read correctly in some searches getting rid of the beak area drops compression with standard Metro pistons to around 8.5:1????

I want to set up for around 10psi and see how it goes. Our Optimax over here is 98 octane which is about as good a fuel as we can get, I assume it is similar to yours.

I don't want to drop compresion too much as I want some driveablility off boost, otherwise I'd stick with the big cam, big exhaust and big weber idea and have a pig of a car.

The 10psi would seem a good starting point to see how the tuning and local fuel goes especially with our hot summers. I do believe I can get a reasonable intercooler in behind the grill however to assist.

Given the lack of asistance over here for the turbo I can only get my info from magazines and parts catalogues (and you guys). Probably most of the bits I need will be mail ordered from over there.

I note that Avonbar among others sell uprated needles and diaphram springs to presumably sort fuelingg at higher boost. DO I understand correctly that they also sell an uprated spring for the diaphram of the wastegate actuator to get the 10 psi etc.

Is this necessary to get to 10 psi. What does the turbo put out standard. I do not have the boost modulator. I wil probably be running a 2 inch exhaust or maybe 2.25 if I can fit it in. Given boost can be limited by restriction will this help and what else is really needed to get 10psi and above if I choose later on.

Are there better places to purchase bits than the likes of Avonbar or Minspares, Minisport etc or are their of the shelf turbo bits quite good.

Also I do not have the factory fuel pump, are there others that can be used. I do have an efi pump from a Nissan. I think I read somewhere that you need around 36psi for the turbo.

Also are there some good manual pages around I can download that show all the plumbing etc for the setup. My engie is mostly there but soem of the vacumn hoses etc are disconnected.

All help appreciated.

Gavin

hello and welcome first of all what a great name you have lol, seriously though you shouldnt need much more assisstance now you found the site, probably worth doing a few searches if you want more info as thats a lot of questions, first off you dont necessarily need to uprate your actuator you can get 10psi using a bleed valve but it is not as reliable i'd say and you will lose a little mid range power as apposed to an uprated actuator. with lower CR and an intercooler 10 psi will be fine but you are right in saying you will need a new needle and also a rolling road tune. opinions vary on suppliers but minispares seem to be the worst in my opinion (someone got charged ?7 for a woodruff key for p+p in the uk so you will prob have to re-mortgage your house if you want anything substantial!!) hope this helps a little

oh use this for the plumbing http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=3359

should go well.

you should be able to run 9-10psi on standard set with a good located intercooler.

fuel pump should be ok but need to run some 8mm pipe for the return to the tank, easiest way is the t piece method behind the pump (save aletring the tank).

i would run 7 psi on normal actuator set up the bleed of the other 2-3psi.
just screw in the actuator arm to get the extra as they are set up for 4 psi as standard. but you may need a new actuator as the springs go soft after a whislt.

on 9-10psi you should be looking at about 120bhp at the flywheel but loads of touque.
cam shaft is upto you but the mg metro NA cam is a good starting point.

i would leave it as standard first get it all up and running properly then go from there.

make sure you at least replace the main jet and float needle valve in the carb as they are always worn best get a complete rebuild kit first.

but make sure you get it rolling roadded as if you dont then the engine wont last long.

also get ia inlet temp sensor and gauge as this is inportant espcially in the hot.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas