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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Clutch adjustment

1310turbo

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323 Posts
Member #: 41
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i know its possible to adjust the pre-verto clutches when they begin to wear, but can you adjust it the other way? when i push the clutch down and select first gear and add a few revs, you can feel the clutch starting to bite, the bite point is also right at the bottom, just wondered if you can adjust it at all, otherwise i'll have to live with it until it starts to wear

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|


AlexF2003

5795 Posts
Member #: 80
AFRacing LTD

Newbury, Berks

You need to adjust that... wear won't make it better, quite the oppsite!!

Follow the haynes manual for setting it up, it its not that it might be ware in the arm etc..

alex

AlexF


1310turbo

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323 Posts
Member #: 41
Senior Member

yeh i put new arms and plunger in when i built it up so that wont be a problem, i'll have a go at adjusting it..

keep blowing fuses aswell, on the ignition side, nothing that i can see is shorting to earth. so annoying trying to fault find.

it will be finished one day, want my car back lol

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|


Carl

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liverpool-on-sea

just an idea on your ignition fuse blowing. have you wired in your fuel pump to your ignition circuit? if so you might be that your overloading your fuse. you need to use a relay if youve not already done so see some of the older posts were turbo dave explains how to wire your fuel pump properly *wink*

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


1310turbo

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323 Posts
Member #: 41
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yeah it is possibile, at the moment the pump is running off the ignition. the car has ran fine until i starting connecting back up all of the dials and wiper motor switches etc. but im pretty sure i had disconnected the pump while i was doing this as i didnt want it running while i was connecting things up and making them live...there doesnt appear to be any live wires which are shorting to earth, its odd. only seemed to do it when i operated the wiper motor, then the first fuse went, it fault that is happening in the description in this link below...

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|


jukka

302 Posts
Member #: 60
Forgotten more than most ever know

I used to all kind of problems with original fuse box. Having wipers, headlights and heater on was too much. All systems worked great alone but in rainy conditions the fuse usually failed. Sometimes the fuse was OK and connection worked again after wiggling the fuse in its holder. I finally got rid of the fuse box and used a modern Nissan unit. Together with Ford alternator there?s plenty of electricity and no more blown fuses.

Jukka


1310turbo

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Member #: 41
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yeah i did the same jukka, well, i still have the original fuse box but i also have a secondary modern fuse box fitted, when i have time i'd like to rip out the loom and make up a new one, the car is from 1972 so alot of the cables have corroded

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|


Carl

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liverpool-on-sea

is the fuse blowing all the time or when the engine is running i ask because i had the same problem id wired me fuel punp up to an ignition live and when i turned the heated rear window on whilst driving the fuse blew. to fix it i used the ignition live to control a relay which powered the pump. relays only need a very small currant to work

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.


1310turbo

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323 Posts
Member #: 41
Senior Member

no it only blows when i switch the ignition on, with the pump disconnected so its only the ignition being switched on, nothing (wiper, heated screen indicators) can be drawing too much current

A-series power! 1972|1310|T3 turbo|Omega pistons|Cantre main strap|Orange clutch diaphragm|AP race plate|Comp pressure plate|Lightened steel flywheel|13-row oil cooler|Vernier duplex timing gear|Phase 2 Piper cam|Green air filter|Hi boost carb needle/spring|2"Stainless exhaust|3"Play mini stainless rear box|Jack Knight s/c 4spd gearbox|Jack Knight s/c drop gears|Silicon coolant hoses|Lumenition HT leads|GAZ lowered height shocks all round|Steel flip-front|Rear safety devices cage|Group 5 arches|6x12 deep dish Minilites|Surf blue/Old english white|


Carl

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2924 Posts
Member #: 95
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liverpool-on-sea

have you checked the back of the fuse board for corrosion? the easiest way to find a short, remove the fuse which keeps blowing, get a bulb holder and bulb(fog light bulb will do a small bulb is no good) connect 2 wires to it and connect the wires to the two fuse terminals so the bulb replaces the fuse when the short is there the bulb will light up brightly, now you can go around unplugging things or wiggling wires if you do something thatmakes the bulb go out(or dim) your probably in the right area.
hope this helps and saves pounds in fuses you cant leave the bulb in permanently though only to test!

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.

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