New to EFI conversion
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi Rod,

I cannot say that I have those three right. I can calibrate quite easily the battery voltage and measure the injector dead time. But how do I correct for battery voltage ?

EDIT> Actually the MS3x manual doesn't really tell how to calibrate the battery voltage.

Edited by Barrieri on 5th Mar, 2017.

Some useful information in here. I am looinking into MS and i understand the problems with port-style injection on the Mini head.

I was thinking i could go with the Micro squirt module as it has a few additional features. like the support of 2 widebands, as well as 2 VR sensor inputs which is needed for the Cam position sensor for proper injection sequence. I am aware it does have some limitations, like no MAP sensor and limited outputs.

This may be a dumb question, but who makes a Cam Sensor for the A-series motor? or is this something i need to figure out on my own DIY?

I know I would need a 4 Injector board as the micro and MS2 only support 2 by default.

This is my first time doing this. Trying to do as much reading as possible before i get started.

Can sensor will be a DIY modification. There are many ways it can be done, and most ways have been tried by one or another on this forum, have a good search in these topics and you'll find something. No point re inventing the wheel.

As Colin says, DIY (unless you are working on an MPI setup or cam).

And most of the DIY ones use hall or optical sensors, not VR, so the standard MS is fine, just use the opto input circuit and configure it for secondary tach. It was there for basic points type inputs, too slow for VR type multy tooth wheels but fine for once every two engine revolutions.
Standard MS2 can also be configured for two wideband.
Both the above just require some very basic soldering.
Also you only need 4 injector drivers for staged injection. If you start with just two large injectors or smaller ones in parallel (not staged) then the two standard drivers are fine for either low z or high.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Back home now (previous reply was from phone)...

The problem with searching is an awful lot of people used to use photobucket (I did) and since they committed commercial suicide the photos are no longer linked or even deleted (by people who closed their accounts).

Here's a very early piccy of mine re-uploaded to Flickr

P5210410 by Rod Sugden, on Flickr

P5210411 by Rod Sugden, on Flickr

Cut down dizzy body, aluminium plate, slotted optical switch, slotted aluminium disk.

Other cut down dizzy options, steel disk and hall switch or even take a late electronic dizzy, lock the mechanical advance and cut three of the vanes of so there is only one, remove the existing electronics and just use the hall switch.

Others have added a steel bolt to the timing chain large sprocket and used a threaded hall switch through the cover to watch it passing by.

Possibilities are endless.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

I have an old distributor i took apart today. Cut down the shaft and drilled and tapped it. Im thinking about cutting it at the black marker line. So i can still use the bolts for the distributor cap. But just a flat plate. Then get an aluminum wheel with a notch and go optical.

Attachments:

2.41mb

2.14mb