new engine setup
Turbo Mini Forums

now simon has all the bits just wondering if someone can give advice on setting up a brand new engine, all i know is you have to turn it over without plugs in to get oil pressure, how many miles roughly will it take to bed the engine in? also can someone please explane ignition advance/retard etc and what welding the dizzy up does as i never got this cheers, gav

well gav i would run in at 3k rpm for the first 500 miles gentle paeddal pressure, then no more than 3500 rpm until 1000 miles still gentle pressure and low boost say no more than 4 psi.

still low boost but dont take above 4k but give it a bit more peddle presure until 1500miles , then chuck in your decent oil and bobs your uncle.

some may disagree thats its to long for running in but thats the way i was told buy my engineering guy at scholar engines and had no probs, you do seem to get a lot of people blow engines early on as they aint set up properly and havnt finished running in and bang theres goes your engine.

use shit cheep oil for the first 100 miles just to flush out everything, then use something duckhams q 20/50 for the next 500 miles , then again until 1500 miles then put your decent oil say a smei synthectic for at least another 1000 miles then use a fully if you like.

once started set timing to say 20 to 22 deg until you get to the rolling road for intial set up for fueling ect.

to lock dizzy strip to bits and just weld up the weights so they dont move and there you go.

if you are using a standard turbo needle then make sure the main jet is about 3-4 mm down tube to start with if pos once started use a co meter and make co about 5 % at tick over this should see you ok until a rolling raod session.

the standard needle should be ok as a decent operater will be able to profile it to suit your engine.

dont bother with a high boost needle as it may not suit.

you can always take meat of a needle but you cant put it back on.

hope this helps

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

nice one mate sounds good will prob give you a ring if i make it all go wrong lol, who's that rolling road you and matt use?

Run it in quick and it'll be quick.

Racers run the engine in in no time at all!

Its only a bit of metal. If it blows it blows!

http://www.putfile.com/mini300bhp

yes but the need to and the rebuild them very often.

we use ray at t and m electrics at clochester ill put the number on here when i find it.

top turbo guy

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

cheers mate whats the point of welding the dizzy then is it recently necessary?

keeps control over the centruifugal advance eg you dont get none. essential for when the boost comes in and you get a steadey ignition timing, last thing you want is spark scatter when on boost, but some people dont do it but i do and does work ok.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

Yes works well for me too, i run locked 25deg but have connected vacuum advance for a bit more economy when cruising. Allthough some engines dont respond well to this it must be said.

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-

The only thing you are really running in on a new engine is the rings.

If an engine goes 'bang' soon after running in or very early on without running in then this is because the engine has not been built right and not because it's not been run in properly. (bit wordy that sentance)

A few hundred miles of gentle use should bed the rings in fine.

I never run my engines in. It's one heat cycle to check for leaks then off to the RR or racetrack.

As said though I inspect it every 500 miles.

Wil

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

I dotn agree with long run ins either...

Nither does any motor manufacturer!

Materials and machining has moved on thou..

I'd personally do the following:

build up oil pressure on the starter after having primed the oil pump.

1st start... get it started and run her at 2-3 rpm up and down for 20 mins to bed the cam in. DOnt hold the revs steady!

After that do 100 miles gently as you can and change the oil.

Next 400 miles drive the car normally but DO NOT labour or go past about 4k rpm. The rings will set best if you do plent of slow rpm increses and then slow rpm decreses in gear to push and the suck the rings about!

After that its as run in as its going to be, so change the oil and off you go.

Remeber you do need to get the car setup as best you can before you start is, and then fully as soon as its run in.

Alex

AlexF

well i did say oyher people had there one opions and each to there own.

but i have asked about many times on this subject and at least 4 out of 5 said the same think.

when running in the way i have been told buy some top engine builders and one was my mum who was a matelurgist many yaers ago.

the reason being isnt just beddinging in the rings its to do with the building of a nard carbide layer up on the bore walls from the the heating of engine during the explosion when driven reasonably gently over a period of time this layer can get thicker thus making the cylinder wall harder but a upto 4-7 thou thick.

but if driven to hard to ealy this layer for some reason doesnt build thus will lead to bore wear in the future or more premeturly.

this is also the same for bedding in brake disc you hit the peddal hard to early and watch the brakes wear like mad.

i stripped an engine down a few years ago which i built and the bores were quiet worn for the little time the engine had been used, i think it was only about 20000 miles all told, the servicing of the engine was always up held but it was only a quick run in period i chose to take.
so my findings was based on talking to people in the know and my own experinces i have faced.

my current engine the rings have been in the engine for 5 well hard driven years with no signs of adverse wear to the bores.

but on the other hands us turbo boys will see a shorter service life to our engines in comparitive terms to a normal road engine.

but going back to alex coments on manufactors engines is that modern engines dont take bugger all running in as the spend some time on engine test beds before they are fitted to a car plus also modern building techn and metrials means they dont require much running in unlike the older designed a series engines.

miniwilliams has also used this tech of running in and has not seen a drop of piston , ring or bore wear from his lastes engine which has been thrashed senslless for the last 2 years on full chat so that speeks for its self as well.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

I suspect your modern engines are manufactured using better machines than those used to re-bore rattly old A-series units...

You've heard a few points, time to think tfor yourself.

I'd be pretty pissed off if some one was boring my A series to less accuracy than a modern production engine, just cause the design is like 50 years old dosent mean it don't need the same build quality as a modern motor.

Stand by to be pissed off then...

I very much doubt that the same boring bar used on your common a-series rebuilds, along with the honing procedure has the same accuracy as the XXXX thousand ? machine that Ford uses on their production lines...

totaly agree dave, also see what rover, ford ect chuck away aswell you would be outstandard of the srcap.

some do get recylced for recon engines.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

alsao all modern engine uses liners which are hard as fuck

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

cheers guys, is it worth disconnecting the vaccuum then, am a bit confused between initial ignition timing setup and running "locked 25 deg" etc

I'd say because a fixed speed will polish the bores in a certain way. Varying speed avoids this.

This is why when running engines in, it is better to drive on a or b roads rather than sit on a motorway.