Preparation of engine for first start and run in...
Turbo Mini Forums

Morning folks,

I would like to start a new thread as per the title. I have an engine here almost ready to be fired up but want to do it in the correct fashion as to prevent broken shiny new bits, kicking and punching of walls, huge amounts of swearing, spending of more money and general distress etc etc…

Now, I have used the search button many times… I have found many controversial threads (more like debates in the house of commons) but they all seem to go off at a tangent and don't fully explain/cover the title of the thread. So, for someone who is just about to start his engine (built by Steve), I'd like to cover all aspects of preparation, start and run in.

The biggest debate of all, and I know opinions will still be very different, is oil. I have spoke to people outside of TM and people on here and the variation of suggestions are simply mindblowingly confusing!
Eventually, I would like this thread to move on from selection of oil to actually driving the car… but, if we started at the beginning discussing one step at a time it would be very beneficial for myself and others.

Where I am right now - I have the engine in the car, most ancillaries in but the engine is completely dry regarding oil and coolant. I have turned the engine by hand several times in the time it was waiting to be installed in to the car. Since it has gone in, the engine has also been turned over by placing in a high gear and rolling back and forth. So I know the engine turns freely.

For the people I have spoken to privately regarding this matter, everything has been taken on board and I have had some good info. It would be handy to hear other ideas, so thank you.

So the first hurdle is selection of oil, half the people I have spoken to say use good oil and the rest say use cheap crap. Also, I have read of people putting a small amount of oil into the bores through the spark plug holes to lube the wall of the bore… so please chaps, fire away! (no pun intended).

decent oil but not anything too good or it wont bed in....

castrol gtx?

plugs out, bit down the bores if its not been lbed on assy (it should have been)

spin it upp till you get pressure.

check timing,

start it.

run it in on std needle and boost unless its a rebuild of a known spec... keep an eye on afr's dont let it run too rich.

I'm in the cheap oll, its only going to be in there 20min!
Important, is it a new cam and/or followers?

You'll always get lots of good, but differing, advice on a subject like this. However, there is only one view you should really put into action - that of the engine builder.
If you don't, and something does go tits up, how can you have a conversation with him afterwards about the problem?

Ok, good stuff so far… thanks all...

Tom - yes new cam, avonbar phase 2 and new chilled iron followers.

Graemec - Indeed, a very valid point… I've been advised the good stuff by the builder.

The few points I'm trying to get my head around are…

1. Using good oil does not give a chance to bed in the bits that need bedding in…

2. The engine should not be started until it is in a position to be driven (quite hard some might add)...

Edited by evad1980 on 12th Nov, 2015.

Is the castrol gtx the same stuff that's in the Halfords tins? The oil it's self is green.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

OK well as its a new cam and followers you MUST knock the cam in.

Start it up, as soon as it fires DO NOT allow it to idle. Straight up to 2000-2500rpm and hold it there for 20 min.
Keep an eye on the temperature, and the engine for any leaks. If it gets hot or leaks shut it off. DO NOT ALLOW IT TO IDLE! Once you have done 20 min shut it off and dump the oil, change the filter. Then after that get it ready to be driven.

We bed mine in for 20mins of cheap oil too, may have been halfrauds I can't even remember now. Dumped it, changed the filter, filled it with the good stuff then hit the rollers!

They don't die, they just get faster!

It isn't the quality of the oil that is the issue, it is the type. You need to run it in on mineral oil. Not semi or fully synthetic. Using semi or fully synthetic can prevent the piston rings from bedding in, causing the engine to always burn oil.

Right, then thats what I'll do when the time comes. For the moment, once I've put in the oil and coolant… am I ok to crank the engine (without starting as fuel will not be flowing & no spark) and cause no problems to the engine?

Crank it to get oil pressure up is OK. I personally give it a shot of oil down the bores to make sure the rings don't scuff.

Ok, thanks again folks...

I think that Tom's advice is the most important

Is the cam thoroughly lubed up?
Have the radii of the followers been checked ?
I know it is a huge pain to change now but if there is a dud follower in there it may well eat a lobe.

Edited by Sir Yun on 12th Nov, 2015.

That sir, is not rust, it is the progressive mass reduction system

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

I generally agree with all the above;

I got a 'cheap' mineral oil from B&Q of all places as it worked out the cheapest to do the initial bedding in of the cam.

pull the plugs and get your oil pressure up first.

forgive me but I cant recall if you are using megajolt? if so, assuming you've a suitable base map then, assuming the fueling is close enough to get it up and running, fit the plugs and go for it. As has been noted though, keep the revs up for a good 15-20 mins. Once complete, drop the oil and filter and put some new stuff in.

there is a significant variation to the opinions on what oil to use for the next stage of running in. Personally, I went for a quality mineral oil before going to the millers CTV

Yes Rob, I will be running MJ… I do have a map but fuelling has not been adjusted yet.

So, regarding these issues…. Oil pressure - this is checked with the plugs out to make sure the oil is flowing correctly? Can this be checked by holding the oil filter whilst cranking, apparently you can feel it… or so I've read somewhere else?

What needs to be checked with the fuel - just that it's pissing out nicely with the pump in operation?

Ideally you should have an oil pressure guage. I personally wouldn't run a mini without one. Turning over the engine without the plugs reduces the loads on the rotating parts preventing premature damage while getting pressure

As for fuel, you'll need to set fuel pressure (search this) and a bit of a best guess with the needle postion

Edited by Rob Gavin on 12th Nov, 2015.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=2026

I'm sure there is a guide to set it without the gauge but i couldn't find it quickly

Yeah sorry blonde moment, of course the regulator needs setting… Ive seen that guide before thanks. I was thinking more or the carb, as I did a rebuild on it..

As for the oil pressure gauge… I'll have a look at some now.. I do have the switch on the block but that doesn't help me just now..

Edited by evad1980 on 12th Nov, 2015.

All the switch will do is tell you when the pressure goes above the set limit (7.5 -15psi) depending on the one fitted

Indeed… So the oil pressure gauge would be fed from the switch. A T-piece off the back of the switch to the gauge?

You ideally want a mechanical gauge.

Don't forget:

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cY1YndLmbXQ

Lol!

Don't forget once you have knocked the cam in you need to get it out and drive it quite hard. Not high revs and not letting it labour in a tall gear but smooth acceleration in the middle rev range. This will bed the rings in properly. Do as much as you can like this imo.

Use normal 20/50 mineral for atleast a 1000 miles in my opinion but change it a couple of times.

It's not as much of a black art as people make out