K1100 bonnet options
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi All,

Im currently installing a k1100 16v specialist components engine into my mini. I was aware that bonnet clearance can be tight but in my case i have found that the cam cover is a around 10mm outside the original bonnet skin envelope. Seeing as the manifold to firewall clearance is about 5mm i cant rock the engine back any further and ive used up all the other clearances and jiggery pokery i have easily available. So untill i can undertake some more serious surgery next winter (auto subframe?) im looking at my options with larger bonnets just to get the car on the road. Does anyone know how much extra space a kad style bonnet will give me? im just weighing up going for this style or the larger 16v bonnet that ive seen available.

Thanks
Chris

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1976 mini pickup

Could you not kick the back edge up to give clearance if it is only a temporary issue? Or cut/hammer a power bulge in the existing bonnet?

Surely asking KAD would be the best option?

They're a very helpful bunch.

strange that its 10mm, normally you just need to nibble a bit out of the X member.

SC do a 25mm lower 'slimline' valve cover, rather expensive option though at 475 ex VAT

what you need a measurement of the bonnet, i have one on mine

Yes i moved to the darkside

Instagram @jdm_brett

Could kick the edge up i guess, i'll have to give it a try and see how much is required.

I thought asking KAD about clearances for my sc k1100 might be a bit rude.

yes i cant work out why mine is that much higher than others. taken a few measurements from other minis and mine seems identical. engine mount thickness, subframe to wing etc etc.

I did speak to sc about the valve cover and they arnt actually making them at the moment due to manufacturing costs.

i really just wanted to know how deep the buldge is about there the in;et cam pully is on a kad bonnet.

been trying to source an auto subframe with twin bolts... looks like i'll be modifying a manual frame!

1976 mini pickup

I doubt they would find it rude. You're still buying a product.

understand that this looks like quite a fresh build so there's likely a degree of reluctance to do this but... Get an automatic subframe. It is wider at the engine mount position, therefore the engine can be lowered with the use of spacers to take up the remaining gap.

That's what i have done to solve the same issue you have

Edited by adcyork on 25th Feb, 2016.

Hi Pickup

Other option which does work (see pics of mine) is to lower the right hand mount (rad side) 10 mm to 15 mm by using the older style pressed steel engine mount and modifying it. Sounds a bit drastic but allows the top of the cam cover to clear with some adjustments to the inner bonnet stiffener. I had some big issue getting my engine to sit in my MK one as the manifold was very close to the bulk head and tight to the slam panel with a filter fitted.

All up and running for the last year and making very decent power. If your looking for decent filter that works talk to TIG they made me a filter to fit and this despite being a single sock and some reservation when we start the mapping the engine made more power than running bare trumpets.

Good luck

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