Page:
Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > N/A HIF44 Conversion using AUE825 seal kit

wilsonc001

46 Posts
Member #: 11333
Member

Hello all,

A common topic that has a default/accepted answer - buy the rebuild/service kit.

But I have a HIF44 which was recently serviced so doesn't need all of the components in the service kit. The above part number is listed as a seal kit and the response I got from Burlen was 'it contains everything' (gaskets, o-rings and spindle seals).

Additionally the image from 'Southern Carburetters' does show quite a comprehensive kit:



Has anyone used one of these kits? Does it contain the required parts for the conversion?


Brett

User Avatar

9502 Posts
Member #: 1023
Post Whore

Doncaster, South Yorkshire

what conversion?

n/a - turbo?

you dont NEEEEEDDDD anything if you run the T piece bypas

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


wilsonc001

46 Posts
Member #: 11333
Member

On 22nd Apr, 2016 Brett said:
what conversion?

n/a - turbo?

you dont NEEEEEDDDD anything if you run the T piece bypas


Yes...and that's a nugget of information that I've yet to find clearly explained in the archives. What happens if all you do to an N/A carb is T into the float vent (or drill the plug)? Is it a common misconception that seals etc... need to be added?

As I've been reading I've thought that if a carb doesn't have any vacuum leaks why would it leak boost? But I've not found anyone telling that story.

I appreciate this is a very....very common topic so I've avoided posting until I've been as far back through the archives as I can and every thread points to the same answer - buy the service kit and plumb it in according to the handy diagram, but what if...


seahuston

168 Posts
Member #: 10666
Advanced Member

California, USA

Just went through this, I agree it's a little confusing. There isn't anything special in the rebuild though some people are particular about the orientation of the throttle spindle seals.
It is important that you do the T-Piece or drill the passageway. I ran into lots of issues because I didn't do either. I recommend drilling, it's pretty easy as it's nearly already drilled and looks much cleaner.


Brett

User Avatar

9502 Posts
Member #: 1023
Post Whore

Doncaster, South Yorkshire




On 22nd Apr, 2016 wilsonc001 said:
On 22nd Apr, 2016 Brett said:
what conversion?

n/a - turbo?

you dont NEEEEEDDDD anything if you run the T piece bypas


Yes...and that's a nugget of information that I've yet to find clearly explained in the archives. What happens if all you do to an N/A carb is T into the float vent (or drill the plug)? Is it a common misconception that seals etc... need to be added?

As I've been reading I've thought that if a carb doesn't have any vacuum leaks why would it leak boost? But I've not found anyone telling that story.

I appreciate this is a very....very common topic so I've avoided posting until I've been as far back through the archives as I can and every thread points to the same answer - buy the service kit and plumb it in according to the handy diagram, but what if...


i have stripped and rebuilt a number of carbs, and converted some too, i got my hands on a cracked turbo carb and stripped that down side by side with an n/a carb, the throttle spindle seals were no different one carb to the next,

the carb i ran on my last turbo 5 port was a converted N/A carb

i like to think i got to know the hif rather well i did alot of datalogging and needle profiling with it on mine ( the turbo and a 998 hif33 ) and 2 others

ask any question on the hif no matter how small and i might just know the answer

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


wilsonc001

46 Posts
Member #: 11333
Member

I really just wanted to try and capture the minimum requirements for using an N/A carb. It would seem it shakes out as the only real requirements are that it's plumbed in as per the diagram and that a restrictor is present somewhere in the intake so that the float can be pressurised from a pre-restriction connection (producing the required differential between the float bowl and the bridge).

The extra parts provided by the rebuild kit are a 'nice to have' if the carb is healthy and the dashpot will likely be sealed without any additional work although some sealant or a thin gasket will ensure the seal is good.

Is that a fair summary?


Brett

User Avatar

9502 Posts
Member #: 1023
Post Whore

Doncaster, South Yorkshire

Spot on mate, the restrictions pre carb in the plenum is fairly specific
I would try to use a plenum as its already sorted
I think some members experimented with a pitot tube
But I never looked into it

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


wilsonc001

46 Posts
Member #: 11333
Member

Great, just the confirmation I was looking for!

I will be experimenting with a DIY plenum as I'll also be experimenting with a 38 but I have a 44 as a fall-back if I can't come up with a usable solution.


Brett

User Avatar

9502 Posts
Member #: 1023
Post Whore

Doncaster, South Yorkshire

The hif38 is the same as a turbo hif44
Plumbing wise from what I have seen the hif38 i had even had the part throttle lean off pipe connections the turbo hif44 has

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


wilsonc001

46 Posts
Member #: 11333
Member

Yes, pretty much the same. The only significant change is that there is only one feed into the dashpot chamber from the filter side of the carb. The other opening is what will become the float bowl pressure feed. (So it has 2 openings rather than the 3 on the 44).


The one area that could cause some interesting results is the tapering of the bore within the body. The opening on the engine side is 38mm while the air filter side is only 35mm. I've not got to the bottom of that one yet.

Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > N/A HIF44 Conversion using AUE825 seal kit
Users viewing this thread: none. (+ 1 Guests)  
To post messages you must be logged in!
Username: Password:
Page: