hilo to low.
Turbo Mini Forums

My brother in law stood here with his mini to raise the car a bit because it was rubbing arches when the kids sit at the back and he took a bump

the donuts are not worn at all but the hi lo's were screwed out to the fullest. i looked at the ones on my project mini and saw they were about 12 mm longer than his (both fully screwed in 3 mm at the base of the cone and about 9 at the round bar) so enough to raise it some 60 mm in difference!! i knew he bought a cheap set but never seen the difference till now.

so long story short. i took mine out placed it into his so he could go back on the road. now i have the cheap ones in the project car for now ( even have play at the knuckle) and he said he will buy new one's for me... problem is. i have no idea where i got them anymore and do not want to end up buying the same cheapo short stuf he got.

any advise on where to buy? and what. minisport is the easiest to get stuff from here but might do a trip to the uk in a while. mine were not original hilo's neighter. they were alu cone in bare alu look like his but bigger and thicker.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

I'd wind the adjuster bolt out and add 1 or 2 head nut washers between the "ball" and adjuster bolt. my 2c

1977 Leyland mini Sunshine -- moleseted -- Named " Ray" becoming a 7 port efi slowly
1971 Nota Fang 145 bhp 5 port fun @ 450 kg
1969 Austin 1800 ute, 1800S running gear, tip rat and hardware store runner

Minispares sell the original type hilos branded with ripspeed on them.

http://www.minispares.com/shop/classic/Sus...s~etc.aspx?1913

Edited by Carlzilla on 22nd Oct, 2016.

The early knuckle joints were a little shorter. When they introduced the 12" wheels they fitted a spacer between the knuckle and the trumpet. This later became incorporated into the knuckle. At some point along the way, the older shorter knuckle became NLA.

Other factors affecting this is the type of adjustable trumpet you have, the wear already in the knuckle joints and how compressed the cones are (and they do deteriorate alot). One other thing that plays into it is the location of the radius arm pin and or wear in the bushes. I've seen the hole on the inside edge of the subframe for the pin elongate. Granted this tends to induce a significant amount of toe out at the rear but it also lowers the car too.

we mesured the donets with new one's. they only sagged 3 mm ( so meaning the car is lower at around 15 mm by that. all the rest is brand new ( 1 year ago but it seen 800 km since then) his were screwed out to the max to get 4 cm between wheel and wheelarch mine are only out about halfway to make the gap stand at 50 mm ( he likes it like that) think its just a very cheap repo he bought at minispeed ( not downing minispeed) ill look into the minispares ones only need the rear but nothing urgent.. car is a long way from driving on the road ( besides half of the new rubber parts on it when i started on the suspension 3 years ago are craked and ripped from standing there in the garage so even more time before it sees the road

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018