Losing power.... continuously.... back in the game!!
Turbo Mini Forums

Is the injection pump straight out of the standard tank outlet (that I'm assuming is a van tank).

I wonder if there is some surge? or is the tank breather blocked?

Van tanks are a pain. The injection pumps don't like lifting fuel and need to be below the tank. I used a lifter pump and swirl pot. Worked a treat, but was a lot of messing around.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

Only now just back from L2B mate n first time on here... sorry to hear aout this damn problem, i hope u find out what it is soon i was lookin forward to a looksy at ya mini this weekend

Ya a van tank and pump out of standard outlet. I did wonder that about the breather and have drilled a tiny hole just below the cap for that purpose..

I was looking forward to showing it off, Dave!

The estate tank needs a vented fuel cap.

A question on the fuel sender unit for the tank... to go off slightly on a tangent...

The van/estate sender unit only has one terminal on it and the wiring loom only has one cable (green & black) to connect to this terminal. I notice when looking at sender units for the saloon models they have two terminals, one for the equivalent green & black cable and the other for earth I'm assuming. Does anyone know for sure if the van/estate sender unit is earthed through the tank or do I need to earth it myself by making up a lead that is missing? The tank is painted and the sender unit has a gasket with painted screws holding it in place so I'm guessing the earth is not fantastic. My fuel gauge reads 3/4 full all the time.. if I put the green & black directly to earth it reads full so I know the gauge works...

Edited by evad1980 on 23rd May, 2017.

The van tank bolts directly to the chassis. The saloon tank is strapped in and not directly connected.

So the single wire is fine. But it sounds like the tank must not be earthed properly. Try putting an earth wire between the tank and the chassis.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

Sorry to be a pedantic twat but the estate tank fixes with 4 (or 6?) large screws that screw into nylon bushes. So maybe an extra earth is needed, although from memory none fitted at standard.

Learned something new there.

I have no problems with pedentry.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

Yup your right, 6 screws into nylon bushes.. just checked, I knew the rear 3 defiantly did as you can see them. Couldn't remember about the other 3... yeah makes sense, I'll try that shortly..

Regarding the main issue.. I have a larger flow fuel filter, I may change this and see how I get on... it's obviously fuel not getting through somehow..

Maybe I should just bite the bullet and change the pump too? It's the same pump from when I first got the car so I don't really know the efficiency of it... even though I can hear it whirling doesn't mean It's working 100%.. but then again, it is showing pressure on the gauge when setting the regulator?

Hmmmmmmm... what to do eh?

Ok, so the sun was shining so I thought I'd pop her around the block to see if she was still playing silly buggers...

She was...

So this is what happened exactly.. started her up in the garage and she fired up on the button. Drove out around the block and stayed very local as I knew what was probably coming... drove fine for the first 5 mins and then I could gradually feel the loss of power coming 6-7 mins in. So it feels like its being starved after a short while. She ran out of power just on the turn into my road. Pulled over and sat there for 5-10 mins then started it again on the button and managed to limp the last 200 metres to my drive, with very little power.

What else is strange is that the brakes seemed to have seized too. It did this the other day also when I set off for Brighton and had the power issues. So I just jacked up the front and the wheels were locked, out of gear yes. Jacked both rear corners and wheels were very had to turn, is as if the handbrake was on... it wasn't. The pedal had gone rock hard too. I mean WTF??
This brake issue has happened both times the engine has been giving me jip! Coincidental I'm sure but whats making the brakes do that? I had a text chat with Gary on here and he suggested a pinched brake pipe, drums adjusted too tight or a piston seized in the calliper? But surely that would only affect the associated wheel... they have all locked? Must be an issue in the master cylinder? When it happened the other day, it had freed itself after half hour or so because I could push it.. certainly can't be pushed when its happening..

Have you got a servo? If so have you got a one way valve between the manifold and servo?

Interesting,

Have you got a lambda gauge in there,if so do you notice the air going wonky,

Also what ignition? I have had the black modules go iffy on the metro dizys and cause this sort if thing, let them cool off and they start working again...

With the brakes isn't all for wheels or just the backs? I had a rear brake limiter that locked itself full on... Had to bin it.
Next time it does it try cracking the joint at the master cylinder to see if there's pressure there.

Nope, no servo. Binned it..

And no, no lambda gauge. The ignition in MJ.. no dizzy..

All the wheels were locked. Strange.

Just went out to the garage... brakes all free again. When I put it in the garage an hour ago they were all locked. And now free..

Fecking thing!!

must be the master cylinder, about the only thing that could affect that engine wise is heat doing somthing to the seals.

I had an old 998 clubman a few years back. It had a dodgy ignition lead. Worked absolutely fine until the under bonnet temps went up, then it would just die. Let it cool down a bit and it would be fine or a short while further...

Adjust the master cyl pushrod. When hot the fluid can't return and is locking the brakes on. Doesn't need a lot so go steady!

Adjust the master cyl pushrod if possible?When hot the fluid can't return and is locking the brakes on. Doesn't need a lot so go steady!

Ok.. makes sense.. I'll look at it tomorrow.. cheers

I have had a very similar problem and it ended up being too much fluid in the master cylinder. I used to use an easy bleed kit which filled the master cylinder to the top and when the brakes became warm there must of being a bit of expansion in the fluid and even though the cap has a pin hole in it. I removed about 12mm of fluid and it was fine after that.
Just an idea maybe.
Roy B

Hmmmmm ok... I think mine is fairly full actually. Is that 12mm from the rim with the cap off??

Yes. just below the neck. That was on a single line cylinder. (old style)

Ok thanks... I'll check that out tomorrow...

So is the lack of power now just because the brakes are coming on? Have u got a mastercylinder to hand to swap out? Mine done that but turned out to be a warped disc that heated up the fluid obviously not in your case