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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Rusted boot floor section

steve2016

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My boot floor has rusted through where it meets the back end of the car. Is it right that I'm going to have to remove the rear valance and if so can it be removed in a way that I can reuse it? I saw a repair section on minispares but didn't realise it sandwiches between the valance and body section

Anyone got a guide on doing it?

Thanks


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Rotherham South Yorkshire

To do it right the rear valance needs to come off. They aren't a lot of money to replace, or at least they didn't use to be.
To do the neatest job you'll need to get hold of a spot welder.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Rob Gavin

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if the bood floor needs replaced, the likelihood is the valance will need doing to anyway.

Tom - have the seen the price of panels these days??


steve2016

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The valance is solid that's the annoying thing.. I think the previous owner just bodged it up. There was a metal plate glued over a rust hole in the boot with seam sealer around it to make it look like it was done right...

Rear valance is £60 but didn't really want to replace if didn't need to


steve2016

81 Posts
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Advanced Member

The valance is solid that's the annoying thing.. I think the previous owner just bodged it up. There was a metal plate glued over a rust hole in the boot with seam sealer around it to make it look like it was done right...

Rear valance is £60 but didn't really want to replace if didn't need to


apbellamy

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King Gaycharger, butt plug dealer, Sheldon Cooper and a BAC but generally a niceish fella if you dont mind a northerner

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Then you'll need to drill all the spot welds out if you want to save it.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


steve2016

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Where about are all the spot weld s for it?

Thanks


cossierick

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wakefield West Yorks

Sorry but if your asking the question of where are the spot welds then your far from capable of doing the job in an acceptable manner.


steve2016

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I work at a Bodyshop I just wanted to simply know where they were as I don't have the car with me to look at and so I have an idea when I come to attack it. At work full repair guides are available but I don't think classic minis will be on the database..


steve2016

81 Posts
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Advanced Member

I managed to get a look today... The previous owner has just put 6 tack looking welds across the back panel, boot floor and valance... Looks like it will come off quite easy *smiley* no spot welds to drill.

Edited by steve2016 on 29th May, 2017.


Rob Gavin

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just as well your taking it off if that is how it was repaired previously


steve2016

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Was thinking of bonding the panel on. At work when a new 1/4 is fitted they are mainly bonded on now instead of welded, a few welds go on but mainly its a high strength bond used now.

I'm guessing the rust is caused by water getting in between the sandwiched panels, if its bonded then that could make a water tight seal stopping it corroding?


Oli

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Wilts

Why not weld it like should be........

then put seam sealer to stop water ingress.

On 15th Jul, 2009 fastcarl said:
the pissed up clown stood back up, did a twirl and left bollock naked,


Rob Gavin

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I've known people do it both ways. The only downside with bonding is that you have to rely on the panel being the right shape to start with whereas welding allows it to be pushed and pulled into place. The closers would still need to be welded on to the boot floor i'd suspect


D4VE

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lowestoft suffolk

Seen a few people use riv-nuts n bolts to make it removeable

On 24th Oct, 2015 jonny f said:
Nothing gets past Dave lol

NOTHING GETS PAST ME!! *tongue*

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Shauna

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Swansea boyo!

Mine just bolts on and off :)

On 30th May, 2017 D4VE said:
Seen a few people use riv-nuts n bolts to make it removeable

They don't die, they just get faster!

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