How are people plumbing the cooling system on their twin cam builds
Turbo Mini Forums

Are you running header or expansion tanks? How are you bleeding the system?

I found this pic whilst researching on the site. shows the waterways go quite high up in the head, much higher than the water outlet on the head.. Im wandering how or if this is dealt with. I'm planning on a front mount, so makes things a bit more tricky compared to the sidemount, as I've got to place the filler somewhere else..



Any pics of what others have done and have working?

Dan

Just found this interesting set up on a youtube vid. Must be a open deck set up to be working how it is. But im wandering if you could do something where you come out the block into swirl/filler neck then back into the block if you were closed deck

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zkf16UafcZo

Remember they are tipped on their side in a bike.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.

Yea exactly, obviously that area above the outlet fills up on a bike, but in a mini it must not, unless people are drilling and tapping for a bleed nipple?

I just welded a small boss on the inlet face at the intersection of vertical and angled part, and put a 4mm hole through the casting. A small nipple and hose then heads back to the top hose.

You can just about see the boss behind the red fitting on the fuel rail, and the other end going into the top of the thermostat housing.

Edited by TurboDave16V on 17th Nov, 2017.

That's interesting, so you've added a self bleed/higher outlet, smart

TurboHarry went an even better route and moved the outlet higher (chopping out that lump of alloy with the big hole that was the k1100 engine mount... I looked at doing that as well, but decided I liked having the bracket there as it’s a useful point to lift the engine out with...

Dave,
What make is that connector on the left of your scuttle?
Looks like a neat solution!

Very nice engine bay

Any pics? I cut that lump back already cos it was ugly :lol:

Are the two core plugs on the top of the head water? Was thinking about teeing off then and venting to header tank

Edited by minimole23 on 18th Nov, 2017.

Deutsch hdp20 47 pin.
Not cheap, but definately worth it...
I strongly reccommend the 47 pin as you have lots of spares, and some high-current as well as low current pins.

It’s worth getting a baggie of extra blanking plugs as well as the removal tools for the one time you put a pin in wrong lol
The kits on eBay (USA) come with a few spare pins & sockets though.

The mil-spec connectors (amphenol?) are good robust units, but don’t have the seals / strain relief of the deutsch and are solder only; but then again unless you have the pukka crimp tool (mine was a lucky car-boot Sale find), it can take a little practice to properly crimp the deutsch connector pins as you need to crimp in a way the pin stays straight...

Edited by TurboDave16V on 18th Nov, 2017.

I was just coming on here to ask if you used the tool.

Thanks for the info Dave and Jonny, some food for thought

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Edited by Sprocket on 19th Nov, 2017.

On 19th Nov, 2017 Sprocket said:

On 18th Nov, 2017 minimole23 said:
Are the two core plugs on the top of the head water? Was thinking about teeing off then and venting to header tank

Edited by JetBLICK on 20th Nov, 2017.

That looks like the standard mini temp sensor and the bosch 0280130026 that almost every ECU manufacturer uses.

Just visited John Kimmins and picked up most of the stuff for the build including freshly machined block and head together with all the extras and asked him this question. His opinion is that the air will evacuate itself as the temperature rises if you leave the pressure cap off on the first start up. That is what I will be doing anyway.

Interesting Sprocket. Thats a useful place to put some sensors anyway.

I thought in the same place for the sensors, but always thought that was to close from the spark plugs and could interfere whit the readings.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???