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giallofly

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The Stig..

Newport Pagnell

The wheel and tyre are both knackered...



As the car came to a halt it ground away the bottom ball joint nut and tie rod end...notice the caliper holes still attached..



The knackered caliper, noticed it steaming on the grass at quarry!



It is looking like a wheel bearing siezed, the engine is out, diff looks fine, cv's good..still no real conclusion as yet..

JF...

Edited by giallofly on 26th Sep, 2005.

On 21st Jan, 2011 fastcarl said:


therefore acheiving two things , a sore knob and a beer bellyl




Nic

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First mini turbo to get in the 12's & site perv

Herefordshire

ouch! i particularly like the bottom arm

are those std tie bars?


giallofly

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The Stig..

Newport Pagnell

Standard?

Don't be silly they are expensive rose jointed items..

JF.

On 21st Jan, 2011 fastcarl said:


therefore acheiving two things , a sore knob and a beer bellyl




Choppo

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Bristol

think on the bright side - at least the lower arm will weigh less with a couple thou' ground off matey!

Chops *wink*

Hannibal: There are two ways we can do this: the easy way and the hard way. In a few minutes my friends and I are going to come down on you like your worst nightmare. You're gonna wish the Earth had opened up and swallowed you whole.
bad guy: What's the easy way?
Hannibal: That WAS the easy way.


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Rotherham South Yorkshire

Jon, I had a taper roller wheel bearing seize on me a few years ago. Luckily I was only travelling slowly on the exit of a roundabout at the time. You will probably find when you dismantle it all the rollers welded themselves together etc.

Good luck getting it sorted, I don't have any Cooper S calipers any more I am afraid.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


giallofly

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The Stig..

Newport Pagnell

The bearing and race look fine but the spacer between the two rollers and heavily scored and the drive flange that squeezes the bearings tight is scored, so maybe the castle nut was not tight enough and the wheel ran untrue until it could take no more.....??

On 21st Jan, 2011 fastcarl said:


therefore acheiving two things , a sore knob and a beer bellyl




Turbo Tim

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Woburn Sands

a least you've got the winter to fix it

16V project underway


giallofly

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The Stig..

Newport Pagnell

I have got until Saturday to fix it Tim!

On 21st Jan, 2011 fastcarl said:


therefore acheiving two things , a sore knob and a beer bellyl




Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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I have also had that before, the drive flange wears badly, this wear causes the tension on the bearing from the castle nut torque to be lost, then the wheel starts flapping about..........


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


AlexF2003

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AFRacing LTD

Newbury, Berks

What's caused the damage to the wheel bolt holes?

That looks like the classic wear from running with loose wheel nuts

Alex

AlexF


giallofly

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The Stig..

Newport Pagnell

THE WHEEL NUTS WERE ON TIGHT............

Have been thinking about how it happened and this is my conclusion...

The bearing wears, the clamping force from the "castle nut" is not as tight as it was so it gives the effect of a loose set of wheel nut.

Another fact is i was not using the 2 countersunk screws that hold the drive flange and the disc together, if i had the wheel would have stayed firmly attached to the disc and flange, were as i was not using them.

We live and learn!

So the knackered list

1 x Yoko 32r
1 x Hub carrier
1 x Cooper S caliper
1 x rose jointed tie rod
1 x rosejointed bottom arm
1 x ball joint
1 x timkin roller bearing set
1 x goodridge brake line
1 x cooper S drive flange
1 x Hawker 40 red top battery(hole in inner wheel arm damaged battery)
1 x Tarox grooved disc
1 x a panel
1 x wing
labour on wing/ and paint etc...

£££'s!

Edited by giallofly on 27th Sep, 2005.

On 21st Jan, 2011 fastcarl said:


therefore acheiving two things , a sore knob and a beer bellyl




AlexF2003

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AFRacing LTD

Newbury, Berks

I used the word looks like as a "could it possibly maybe" statement not an accusation!

The only reason for that is that two of the bolt holes are oval... I've left all 4 nuts loose one and went for a drive and it caused the exact same ware pattern. I notice before the wheel come off lucky (bloody luck thinking about it!) and got mine welded up.

Alex

AlexF


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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On 27/09/2005 09:31:55 giallofly said:

Have been thinking about how it happened and this is my conclusion...

The bearing wears, the clamping force from the "castle nut" is not as tight as it was so it gives the effect of a loose set of wheel nut.


If you think about it Jon, no matter how much the bearing wears, this is not going to reduce the distance over which the castle nut is clamping. As the bearing wears, it is going to wear out the rollers in the bearing, and also the bearing faces on the inner and outer races. However, the castle nut clamps through the inner race and the drive flange, so these faces are not subject to wear.....

UNLESS....either, the collar under the nut relaxes and allows some clearance, the nut becomes loose (unlikely), or the bearing goes tight for some reason, and that causes fretting and wear between the inner race, and the drive flange surface, again leading to wear and relaxation of the clamping tension from the castle nut.

Aside from all this, I would be inspecting the threads on the CV joint carefully looking for any stretching, I would also lob the castle nut and split collar and use new ones.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Turbo Tim

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Avon Park 2006 Class D Winner

Woburn Sands

Oh yes, forgot Jon

16V project underway


Jimster
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455bhp per ton
12 sec 1/4 mile road legal mini

Sunny Bridgend, South Wales

This could have been really nasty mate, I'm sure you'll get it sorted, let me know if I can help.


PS about time you washed the bottom of your car too jon!

Team Racing

On 15th May, 2009 TurboDave said:

I think the welsh one has it right!


1st to provide running proof
of turbo twinkie in a car and first to
run a 1/4 in one!!

Is your data backed up?? one extra month free for all Turbo minis members, PM me for detials


T3Tone

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Sunny suffolk

I have had drive flanges wear before where they are in contact with the outer bearing which required the castle nut to be retightened. I have since fitted the minispares uprated drive flanges and when torqued up to 150lbft havent needed retightening. (touch wood)

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-


turbodave16v
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***16***

SouthPark, Colorado

Jon,
I might have a 'half' caliper here that you can rebuild with using your current parts... I'll check my stock.

OR

Are you interested in parting with the unbroken half of the caliper?

ps - if you buy some alloooooominum calipers, make sure you specify cooper-s fitment, not turned-down 8.4's... *wink*

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



giallofly

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The Stig..

Newport Pagnell

Yes, Dave it is any use to you well sort something out....

JF..

On 21st Jan, 2011 fastcarl said:


therefore acheiving two things , a sore knob and a beer bellyl



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