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Home > Show Us Yours! > Efi Supercharged Blow Through

turbominik

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Hi a little bit more update on the project. Today the plenum started to take shape, from a peace of plane 3mm aluminum sheet





and after it was bend and to two end plates welded on each side now looks like this







and this is how it looks in place




turbominik

76 Posts
Member #: 8976
Advanced Member

Hi a little bit more update on the intake manifold, so the plenum is ready







and here is the bend that connects the throttle body to the plenum, since i didn't find a peace of 60mm by 3mm pipe I had to do it from sheet metal and here is the finished part.








turbominik

76 Posts
Member #: 8976
Advanced Member

Hi I need some advice on where to fit the intake temperature sensor, is it better to fit before the blower or before the throttle body and which brand of fuel pressure regulator is the best to use?

Today's progress





Edited by turbominik on 21st Jun, 2018.


jonny f

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Mines after the TB in the plenum on my 7 port turbo. That’s the air temp the engine is getting so made sense to put it there.

Can’t see your update the pictures are not working :(.


turbominik

76 Posts
Member #: 8976
Advanced Member

Hi i fixed the links for the photos. As for pressure regulator which brand is the best to use?


On 20th Jun, 2018 jonny f said:
Mines after the TB in the plenum on my 7 port turbo. That’s the air temp the engine is getting so made sense to put it there.

Can’t see your update the pictures are not working :(.


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

As Jonny says for the MAT sensor, in the plenum, after the blower and TB, it needs to measure the temperature of the air as it enters the engine. Put it somewhere where you can be sure the air is flowing rather than stagnant. With a large aluminium plenum like yours (mine is also a similar size) you will get a lot of heat soak once you stop the engine which will affect even an open bulb type sensor (which MAT ones usually are) so to make sure it quickly gets back to reading the right temperature when you try to restart a hot engine it needs to be well within the flow. In your case I would go for the middle of the sloping bit just above the two inlet runners or even the vertical bit between the two runners.

Re. the regulator any one that references manifold pressure and intended for boosted applications. Preferably adjustable and with a built-in gauge so you can set the optimum for you chosen injectors (usually 3 - 3.5 bar above manifold pressure). And make sure it's linear, not a so called "rising rate" one and the tapping point needs to be in the plenum but not necessarily in the air flow like the MAT because the pressure should be the same even in stagnant areas (although I actually put mine next to each other for simplicity of welding the bosses on).

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


turbominik

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Member #: 8976
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Hi what about this fuel pressure regulators



https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/sytec-...o-unions-msv000

its linear as advised by Rod S it doesn't have a built in gauge but I have fuel pressure gauge inside the car.


turbominik

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Hi a bit more update, the fuel rail retainers are finally welded.

Edited by turbominik on 1st Jul, 2018.


jonny f

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Image doesn't seem to work for me


turbominik

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Hi for some reason google photos is giving some trouble but may I ask you what browser are you using because on google chrome the photos appear but on Microsoft edge don't so its seems something related with the type of browser. I recopied the photo link and its seems to be ok on both browsers.

On 1st Jul, 2018 jonny f said:
Image doesn't seem to work for me


Rod S

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Chrome for my browser but I also don't see the most recent photos. All the previous ones display OK but not June 30th.
Since the suicide of Photobucket I have seen lots of forums which have had problems when people try to use "Google photos" as an alternative.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


jonny f

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I'm the same as Rod, Google Chrome and can see the previous.


turbominik

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The problem is that i can see the photos on both the mobile and the laptop and an other strange thing is that every time i recopy the link of the photo from google photos its always deferent from the previous one . I will try to recopy the link and just let me know if it's vissable or not.

Edited by turbominik on 1st Jul, 2018.


Rod S

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Yes, visible now.....

And that welding is way better then anything I can do with my high spec AC, everything else, TIG.....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


jonny f

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Yea I can see it.

It’s looking like a really nice setup.


turbominik

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Hi today update, I've welded a flange that consist of six threaded holes so that the air temperature sensor, 5 connection for map, boost gauge, charger bypass valve, fuel pressure regulator and 1 spare. As for the air temperature sensor I don't have space to fit it under the small plenum and between the runners as suggested and I didn't like idea to fit it just above the small plenum so I putted on top of the big plenum so that the wires are less visible.




turbominik

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Member #: 8976
Advanced Member

Hi finally the intake manifold is ready *Clapping* today I welded the connection for the brake booster and the PCV.







Next job is to try to find a place where to fit two wideband o2 sensors on the exhaust manifold, since it has to be fitted 2ft from the engine, space is a bit limited.


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

Nice job of the fabrication of the inlet.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Yep that inlet is a really good bit of packaging.

For the lamda's I wouldnt get too bent out of shape abiout them being that far fromt he engine, plenty of us run them only3-5" down stream of the turbo, I'd say of you can get them a foot away you'll be fine.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



turbominik

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Hi I said 2 feet becauce its what I saw on the instructions of the spartan,
since the exhaust system is like of a natural aspirated. Do you think that it will be ok or it will see to much heat 1 feet away from the head, since I don't have a turbo to reduce some of the heat from the exhaust gasses.

Edited by turbominik on 6th Jul, 2018.


Joe C

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Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Yeah, I think there is a large amount of arse covering with the instructions, and they basically aim for maximum reliability and a safety margin,

If your concerned you can always add an extender to the boss, or a heat shield between the lambda and boss, there's details in the innovate manuals,

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



turbominik

76 Posts
Member #: 8976
Advanced Member

Hi its a good idea to fit a heat shield and I found these aem weldable bungs.



I found that in some cases these bung are welded almost an inch after the exhaust flange, also an other good thing is that they retract the sensor and prevent any exhaust restriction.


Turbo Phil

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Lake District

Nice work.

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM


turbominik

76 Posts
Member #: 8976
Advanced Member

Hi a bit more update, I managed to fit the lambda sensors just under the differential housing





if you didn't notice there is no radiator at the front and here are some pics of the radiator under the car at the back







Edited by turbominik on 25th Jul, 2018.


jonny f

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Impressive. Will be interesting to see if it gets enough air flow under there. Great ideas.

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