k1100 turbo spark plug Recommendations for high boost?
Turbo Mini Forums

I called NGK technical, they suggested DCPR6EIX (8196)
D: 12mm
C: 5/8 hex
P: projected
R: 5k ohm
6: heat
E: 3/4” reach
IX: iridium

Or if I wanted to be a cheapskate DCPR6E (3481)


The iridium looks like it’s less susceptible to fouling and folks claim they notice engines run smoother, but I’d probably say the same after spending 400% more on am iridium vs copper core plug too!

Edited by TurboDave16V on 17th May, 2018.

fwiw I have always found regular copper plugs less susceptible to loosing the spark due to boost, not only in my own car but many customers (when I used to do tuning work) .. my favourite plug in the mini (turbo rover k) was ngk BCR8ES ( gapped to 0.75) even daily drove they never fouled.

for high boost on NGK, a 6 is too hot, 7 minimum, if your over 20psi on the regular you could do with an 8. I think the advice to run a 6 is poor, so I wouldnt listen to the rest of it too much.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

agree Denis , i run 7 or 8's or in the tvr 10's , but that hs a msd 7al2 on it . never had any fouling on anything , i think 8's a good alrounder , i have killed 7's before with a blown head gasket .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

Right now, I’m running DR7EA, I was curious why they’d reccomrmded a 6 heat range, But then started confusing myself with heat ranges - is it champion that go the opposite way on the heat range?
As they asked me a few specifics about the ignition, I was curious what - if anything - the high performance Yaris coils had, compared to a standard coil for heat range.

with ngk the higher the number the colder.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

well a quick google shows DR8EA's are avaliable and cheap. seems a good place to start, if they foul up and you know your not running rich you could drop back to the 7's but I doubt youll have a problem as im sure youll be tuning around stoic idle and cruise.

turbo 16v k-series 11.9@118.9 :)

Denis O'Brien.

Final question - resistor plugs. Yay or nay? Surely non resistor is better, but any RF issues then try resistor plugs?

I think resistor plugs are pretty much a must with an ecu, I tried non resistor plugs in the 7 port and the ecu was not a happy bunny.

I'm currently using the DCPR7IEX. The standard plug temperature for the BMW engine was a 6 as is the same for the A series engine, I just went one point cooler for the turbo.

I've heard that drag racers don't like the Iridium plugs, as if there is a problem with a cylinder, the plug survives longer causing more damage. The use the copper core plugs which would in the same circumstance, the plug would fail and extinguish the cylinder and probably save on further damage. Not sure how that applies to a road car seeing as those drag engines only really see a few short bursts, everything happens so fast, its a wonder they ever get a tune at all without damaging something first, so I suppose it sort of makes sense lol.

I started the engine and run it in on DCPR6E plugs that were 9 years old that came out of the engine before I melted piston #2 on nitrous along with plug #2 which was a 7. I went with the Iridium as they should last indefinitely lol.

I think I'm using DR8EA, but I'll check tomorrow for you

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