Clutch advice
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi all,
I'm after a bit of advice regarding clutches, what people have used or can recommend. Retro Rides Gathering at Shelsley Walsh Hillclimb has signalled the beginning of the end for mine, with it starting to slip when we start making boost.
I've no idea how long it's been in or what brand it is, as it was on the engine and used when i got it, but its done a couple of RWYB days at Pod and this weekends hillclimb. Its light and non snatchy, so I'm assuming it's standard.

I don't mind something that's more of a workout to use as it's mainly a track car, that's only used on the road very occasionally, so no traffic/town driving.

Obviously I don't want to spend hundreds on a paddle clutch set-up if folks experience says a heavy duty Avonbar item would do, for example.

The engine is a Pre-Verto 1380 with a Avonbar phase2 cam, and T3 running 10psi, in a Metro estimated weighing somewhere round the 700kgs area, to give an idea of what it's got to put up with.

Cheers for your advice 👍

Have a search for RTS. have to change to verto but its not that difficult.

Sounds like its probably got a fair bit of power so would be best in the long run.

Id come across an article about those ages back while looking for something else, couldn't remember what they were called! The only think that puts me off a bit is having to swap the flywheel, which was lightened and balanced as one unit with the crank and clutch.
I realise swapping the clutch is going to upset this slightly anyway, assuming it's still the clutch it was all balanced with, I remember everything being numbered so itd only go in a certain position when I had the wok off, so I'm guessing so...

The pre verto would cope ok I think. The RTS is the best option but like you say you have to factor in a flywheel change and all the rest of the verto gubbins too. I ran a similar setup to you in one of my old cars and it worked fine with an orange spring so if you go for a grey and a rally plate I think it will be ok.

It would probably be best if you knew what was in there to start with. I presume that until recently it was working fine?

If so, why not just replace it the same?

As the plate wears the clamping force will reduce, so a new plate might be all that you need.

As it goes the 5-paddle Minispares sintered plates C-AHT597 are fine for normal road use (i.e. quite progressive). But they will wear your flywheel and back plate over time - unlike an organic clutch. But they rarely slip in my experience and recover from emergency starts etc.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

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Good advice Wil.

Probably is a bit hung ho to go RTS, worth a thought if you can stretch to it.

Also might be worth checking it’s not the crank seal and/or primary gear that has gone and it’s wept onto the clutch.

Edited by jonny f on 21st Aug, 2018.

Makes sense what you guys are saying, I'll whip the end cover off as soon as I get chance (probably weekend) and see what the current clutch situation is, and how worn and what type the friction plate is. Presumably they have some means of identifying the pressure plate, if it does happen to be an uprated one?

Jonny f i will definitely bear it in mind, and if the time comes to give this engine major surgery thats the route ill go. if there's any signs of weeping crank seal, ill bung one in while I'm there, I may well do it as matter of course, at least then I know it's done, it's sods law it'll start weeping about 5 minutes after fitting a new clutch 😂

Makes sense what you guys are saying, I'll whip the end cover off as soon as I get chance (probably weekend) and see what the current clutch situation is, and how worn and what type the friction plate is. Presumably they have some means of identifying the pressure plate, if it does happen to be an uprated one?

Jonny f i will definitely bear it in mind, and if the time comes to give this engine major surgery thats the route ill go. if there's any signs of weeping crank seal, ill bung one in while I'm there, I may well do it as matter of course, at least then I know it's done, it's sods law it'll start weeping about 5 minutes after fitting a new clutch 😂

10 points to jonny f, clutch contaminated from a leaking rear crank oil seal. What is more of a bugger is that has an AP Racing friction plate that is barely worn in.

soak it in cola for a while then wash it down. nothing to lose if that still doesnt work