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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Small bore - Con-rod locking tabs

Paul S

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8565 Posts
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Formerly Axel

Podland

I'm just building a 60s 1098 Midget engine.

Originally these engines were fitted with a locking tab on the con-rod bolts, as was the case with most Mini engines at the time.

When I stripped the engine, there were lots of issues, one being that the tab washers were not fitted. However, the bolts were tight with no evidence of a problem due to the lack of tabs.

I'm inclined to not fit them but thought I would check with you guys first.

Any known issues or thoughts either way?

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


gr4h4m

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Chester

I ordered a set when I built my 1060. They were softer than cheese, I thought there was more risk of the bolt eating into them and they working loose. So I never used them. I did buy a set of ARP bolts as they were cheap.

I had stripped the 1060 and noticed that the mains bolts had marked the caps so when I built the 1071 I used a set of those williams rods from the bloke in flint and they came with ARP bolts, SO I used what ever came as the set.

On the mains I used the later A+ bolts and a set of ARP washers I ordered from the US.

So far so good and its seen 8300 RPM regularly. Its at the rollers tomorrow so will see if we have lost any BHP and if anything exits the block :)

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York

Can you change the rods for A+ type with bolts?

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph

www.twin-turbo.co.uk

On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Paul S

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8565 Posts
Member #: 573
Formerly Axel

Podland

Thanks guys.

On 3rd May, 2019 gr4h4m said:
I ordered a set when I built my 1060. They were softer than cheese, I thought there was more risk of the bolt eating into them and they working loose. So I never used them.


That's my point really I suppose.

On 3rd May, 2019 wil_h said:
Can you change the rods for A+ type with bolts?


A bit of research has shown that the only big difference between the A-Series rod and the A+ rod is the bolt. The A+ bolts are specifically designed not to require tabs. I read them as described as "stretch" bolts, so I'm guessing they are less prone to coming loose if they have less give.

I've got a spare set of once used A+ rod bolts, so I'm going to pop them in.

Saul Bellow - "A great deal of intelligence can be invested in ignorance when the need for illusion is deep."
Stephen Hawking - "The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge."


Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

I suppose the originals worked great for many years, but the reservation id have is already covered in that you’ve no idea what the original matl spec was and no idea that what you buy is a suitable equivalent.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


R.Rodrigues

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Algarve/Portugal

I never use the tabs neither the pre A bolts, only A+ bolts or 12.9 Allen.


slater

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Suffolk / Birmingham

I've always used 12.9s with a bit of thread lock. That or ARP gear

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