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Dangerous

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Swindon

After having a trip in jons car yesterday,I thought I'd have a look at the mini,I was going to get a brand new shell but now I think I will just do it as a track car so It won't need mot

What panels do I need to fix up here,theres a hole which goes into the sill(in red)and pretty rusty by whre the vents were

Oh and how do I maintain the correct door aperture size*crying*




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Doodmeister

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Alberta, Canada

On 02/10/2005 10:30:40 Dangerous said:

Oh and how do I maintain the correct door aperture size*crying*


Not following you on the door thingy one... patch the rest up and close off the vent holes but patch it good as it's never going to see under seal again only paint.

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wolfie

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mate where the door bolts on is 3 panels spotted togeter, you can buy the inner panel cheapish with the hole in for the vent and holes for the door and is fairly easy to fit, where you have marked in red i would let in a home made section i dont mind helping where i can if you like?

with regards to door apiture if the inner panel is removed carefully there should be no probs, and if theres a little distortion fron the welding whack it with a fcuking big hammer till the door fits or add/remove hinge spacers

Edited by wolfie on 3rd Oct, 2005.

Crystal Sound Audio said:

Why wolfie...you should have your name as Fuckfaceshithead !


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Tom Fenton
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Yes agree with Wolfie 100%. A hole where you have indicated in red is very very common, patched loads of Minis up in this spot. It is what I call a "high impact" area, e.g. it gets a lot of road debris, water, muck, thrown at it, so aggravating corrosion.

To keep the door aperture right, normally you only have problems with this when doing major repairs e.g. inner and outer sills. Make sure the car is well supported on axle stands and is nice and level, and you should not have a problem. As wolfie says you can also adjust the door fit to some extent with shims etc.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


turbodave16v
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SouthPark, Colorado

I cross-braced a door when i removed both inner and outer sills. Deffo not needed in your case!

The top one is a difficult repair with the panel above it fitted (as this one is). Personally, I'd cut off the scuttle panel corners again, and make the 'air vent' panel good again, before welding on new corners and closing pieces. As/If you do both sides, consider purchasing the complete heritage scuttle panel and replacing the lot. It's actually a pretty easy panel to replace, and means your scuttle looks perfect - unlike the tell-tale ripples and mis-shapen lines of the lousy scuttle corner panels on the market.

Well restorable that one for sure!

Edited by turbodave16v on 3rd Oct, 2005.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


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Dangerous

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The scuttle is not that bad (I dont think)


Planing on cutting nice square holes up top and plates to fit



Bottom a bit worse but thick bit which door bolts onto ok,Thinking about a 1/2" X 1/2" angle For where the a panel goes welding that to the thick door panel bit full length then plating the whole lot about 3" wide



Cars an 82 by the way had a bit of a rebuild in 98 new inner/outer sills and bottoms of rear quarters

Edited by Dangerous on 3rd Oct, 2005.


Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!



turbodave16v
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SouthPark, Colorado

You can get a full panel that also has the (essential) return lip for the A-panel to mount to for that repair (as someone mentioned)

Well worth the couple of quid. I'd cut it right back to good metal (just to the left of those two drilled holes looks about right. You'll be fitting a roll-cage presumably? well this bottom corner is where you want most strength from. Make it VERY strong.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



Dangerous

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Yes I have a multi point with about 200 bolts that I got of dan


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turbodave16v
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SouthPark, Colorado

Nice one, should do the job then. Don't forget to get some 4mm plates (MINImum) welded to the floor for the cage mountings. Get some ready cut at a machine shop to save trying to hacksaw them out of a big plate!



On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



nutter driver

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Not very sunny swanage

dave, why 4mm minimium? i was under the impression that even to be fia approved, they only had to be 3 mm top and bottom? or are you only talking about doing one side?

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turbodave16v
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SouthPark, Colorado

That is meant to be 3mm!

must be my big fat american fingers...

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



Dangerous

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Swindon

How big are these plates meant to be,and is it worth bending them so they go up the innersill/wheel arch by say an inch or so


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Carl

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liverpool-on-sea

when i fitted my cage only had plates for the inside! if its a saftey devices cage you can order the fitting kit off them which is plates and bolts, so youl have 400 bolts then 200 spare for mounting seats etc*smiley*

no longer a series, but still 1.3 turbo.

On 28th Nov, 2008 Sprocket said:
Oh now that is a long shaft you have Carl.

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