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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > K1100 conversion kits.

bpirie1000

32 Posts
Member #: 1793
Member

Aberdeen,Scotland

O.k. folks. I am not afraid to get the alloy out and give the kit a go in anyways. Will be turning parts and doing SHED stuff...(because I can and will...)

I have been collecting bits for months and am almost at the stage to start the first stage assembly (enevitaably this will be done at least a dozen times before final (again... just because)


But in everyone's experience which do you go for?

Option 1...
http://www.force-racing.co.uk/products/bmw...conversion-kit/

Option 2.....

https://www.specialist-components.co.uk/ind...ersion-kit.html

Option 3.........
Spend hours doing what everyone else has already done and get to the same conclusions and skint knuckles but overdose on fun...

Cheers folks..


adcyork

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539 Posts
Member #: 6807
Post Whore

York

It's just a balance of cost vs effort.

As you said, you'll come to the same conclusion as either of the two options you've listed but if you've got plenty of time on your hands, a lathe and a mill then sure give it a go.

Personally I used the force racing kit and have found it to be good. My only suggestion would be to bond the seals in with some anaerobic sealer (loctite) as my crank seal walked out of the bore during first turn over on the floor for oil pressure testing


shane

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2618 Posts
Member #: 1246
Post Whore

Lowestoft, Suffolk.

I went for option 3, spent uncountable hours machining and manufacturing parts mainly as I enjoyed the challenge and I prefer knowing I built the car and not just opened my wallet.
Each to their own tho, not everyone has the skills/tools/inclination to do so.

Shane


bpirie1000

32 Posts
Member #: 1793
Member

Aberdeen,Scotland

Yes.. kinda what I was thinking.. so what O the words of wisdom are there..

Still getting my head around the ignition possibilities now..


Brett

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9502 Posts
Member #: 1023
Post Whore

Doncaster, South Yorkshire

Option 1 gets the vote from me, known Carl for years and worked on a couple of his kits

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


R.Rodrigues

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67 Posts
Member #: 8956
Advanced Member

Algarve/Portugal

Vote for option 3

After doing my one kit, I could tell you it's not that hard, and at a fraction of the kit cost. It was a challenge for soure but being able to say to myself I built this its great, all that translate in "smiles per gallon".



TurboDave16V
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10979 Posts
Member #: 17
***16***

SouthPark, Colorado

Whatever kit you go far, there is still a hell of a lot of Work before it’s making the right noises, so just go with which ever one you want.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



bpirie1000

32 Posts
Member #: 1793
Member

Aberdeen,Scotland




On 5th Jun, 2020 TurboDave16V said:
Whatever kit you go far, there is still a hell of a lot of Work before it’s making the right noises, so just go with which ever one you want.


That is why we all do this, is it not...... if it wasn't then i would buy a generically shapped standard box out a show room.....


bpirie1000

32 Posts
Member #: 1793
Member

Aberdeen,Scotland

O.k. folks. 
Need to pick a few brains.. Any help appreciated. 

I am about to embark on a build and before I commit to the engine block modifications can anyone assist me with many questions. 

1. The bike rocker has no filler neck for oil. How do you overcome this? (Drill rocker, separate filler neck?)
2. What ignition system works best (megajolt/EDIS 4?)
3. What are the best plugs to use? (ANYONE..)
4. I trust the head gasket is a modified a.series- modified for the oil channels?
5.some favour the external water pump but does the standard a.series pump have the necessary balls to cope and provide enough cooling?
6.I get the just of removing the lobes from the original crank asthere are no push rods, also about having it put back into the block to run the oil pump and to seal the original cam holes.. has anyone had any issues with this? Or has anyone left the lobes on?
7. What pressure is there in the fuel return line? Have you just used the standard bike fuel rail with the conversion? 
8. Has everyone used standard radiator or gone 4 core? 
9. Do you use the standard bike throttle body choke -is the standard mini cable long enough? 
10. What accelerator cable did you use? 
11. Has anyone made a manifold for this with any success? Turbo may be something I look at later. Just want to get it running for now. 
12. Piston. Yes I know the benefits of replacing for new piston but running the 16v I will need to have the piston machined to accommodate for clearances.. anyone any guidance on this? 
13. 4 pin differential - is this really required. I know it makes sence but can the 2 pin take it.. 

So many questions.... 

Thanks for reading- if I have not sent you to sleep already. 
Feel free to p.m. me as I will be in the garage swearing at the head and block....

Cheers. 
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic...0/#entry3653553

Edited by bpirie1000 on 16th Jun, 2020.


tadge44

3004 Posts
Member #: 2500
Post Whore

Buckinghamshire

I can only tell you what I did.
1)Weld in a filler neck
2)used a standalone ECU
3)NGK 8,s
4)special gasket from kit supplier
5)standard pump works fine but body may need to be machined to clear belt tensioner
6)Left camshaft standard
7)pressure to fuel rail at 45psi is the important bit. there should be NO pressure in the return
8)Alloy rad
9)BMW throttle bodies and injectors
10) Custom cable
11)Omega pistons with cutouts
12)$ pin usually recommended, especially with turbo.

These are minor problems with this conversion as you will find out if and when you decide to go for it.


shane

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2618 Posts
Member #: 1246
Post Whore

Lowestoft, Suffolk.

As above this is what I did, as with any problem there are many solutions to reach a solution/ resolve.
1, I originally turned a filler neck on the lathe which drained into on of the core plugs in the well between the cams, this proved a tidy solution but made doing anything with the leads a pain.
My second attempt I made a crankcase vent/oil separator that was baffled, I have a 25mm vent from the clutch housing and one AN10 from the rocker cover that enter below the baffles. the filler is a standard rocker cap on the top.
2, It's personal preference V cost, I went for emerald (swayed by them being local to me) but there are cheaper more cost effective options available.
3, NGK 7's, not sure if they're right yet as the car needs to go on the rollers.
4, I'm currently using a modified BK450, but next time the head is off I believe MED stock a MLS for these builds which I may try (depending how the BK450 fares).
5, Using a Davies Craig pump and controller, I didn't like how close the can belt ran to a modified pump, I also liked the over run/control of the pump on engine shutdown.
6, I knocked the lobes off on the lathe to make a jackshaft, but there is no reason you can't leave them on.
7, 50PSI rail pressure, and agree with the above re the return line pressure.
8, I had an Alloy front mount rad made based loosely on the MPI unit, there are some members making big power with a side mount rad'.
9/10/11, I've made a couple of inlet/plenums for the two builds I've done and both used one throttle body (soley for packaging reasons)
I used the standard throttle cable which was long enough by miles.
12, cast omegas with cutouts. If your planning to turbo later its a good investment to spend a little more cash here/now.
13, Again for future proofing put a four pin diff in, its easier to do this right once.

Shane



minimole23

4299 Posts
Member #: 1321
Post Whore

Wiltshire

1. The bike rocker has no filler neck for oil. How do you overcome this? - Welded a filler onto the transfer case breather.
4. I trust the head gasket is a modified a.series- modified for the oil channels? I gave up trying to modify a copper Af460 and resorted to the SC one. I'd go dry deck and external oil feed if starting from scratch.
6.I get the just of removing the lobes from the original crank asthere are no push rods, also about having it put back into the block to run the oil pump and to seal the original cam holes.. has anyone had any issues with this? Or has anyone left the lobes on, for the cost I would just take them off, once its done its done, and less weight.
7. What pressure is there in the fuel return line? Have you just used the standard bike fuel rail with the conversion? 3.5 bar fuel pressure seems most common. Bike fuel rail is up to the job.
10. What accelerator cable did you use - Standard mini one did the job for me.
11. Has anyone made a manifold for this with any success? Turbo may be something I look at later. Just want to get it running for now. for the time and cost its easier to buy an off the shelf manifold - maniflow, sc, fusion fabrications etc. It took 3 attempts to get my turbo manifold right - then decided to go NA!
13. 4 pin differential - is this really required. I know it makes sence but can the 2 pin take it.. bin the 2 pin!

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


slater

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1030 Posts
Member #: 1291
Post Whore

Suffolk / Birmingham

If you dont machine the lobes off the cam rember you need to time it in still to avoid collisions with the crank.


TurboDave16V
Forum Mod

10979 Posts
Member #: 17
***16***

SouthPark, Colorado

You don’t need to time it exactly; within 90 degrees is fine.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY


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