metro turbo rts clutch
Turbo Mini Forums

here goes. got a modified metro turbo it had a 20% stronger clutch but it was slipping at about 11 psi. got a rts clutch built and got a verto lightened fly wheel from mini spares. problem is i now cant get a pedal on the clutch at all. tried 2 new cables and still nothing. i just dont get it. any ideas. just got clutch out for 3rd time

could it be the fly wheel from mini spares is not right for a metro

Did you refit the top hat that the release bearing engages on?
The the plunger float easily (cable disconnected) or meet resistance before hitting the throw out stop?
Shane

top hats fitted and plunger feels like it should. its as if the cable isnt pushing far enough to disenguage clutch. do rts clutches need more travel than a cable can give.

Shouldn’t be the case? The throw out stop measurement is the same for minis and Metros Fitted with verto’s if I recall correctly?
Does the stop meet the wok when pedal fully depressed? (just trying to ascertain your achieving normal travel).
What parts were used in the construction of the rts and who built it?
Shane

Is there a gap between the fingers of the two springs?

In the 13's at last!.. Just

the fingers are together nice. it seems to me like the clutch set up sits forward a bit more than the last causing the arm to move closer to the cable giving me trouble with cable ajustment. going to try old fly wheel this weekend see if that does anything . also just ordered new plunger, and bearing , it all helps i guess

where the flywheel posts machined at all to get the spring sat flatter?

Shane

dont think so. ordered the flywheel from minispares and it was sent straight to vmaxcart where he built up the clutch.

dont think so. ordered the flywheel from minispares and it was sent straight to vmaxcart where he built up the clutch.

Has anything else been disassembled and reassembled during the upgrade?
When I built my first RTS using a turbo and an uprated spring, when the wok was fitted I had no free play on the plunger at all, the top hat was making contact with the release bearing and pre loaded.
I had a fudge round and read some of the threads where the assembly was discussed and there was mention of machining the posts to "flatten" the spring (this also has an effect on the point the clutch bites/clamps/max clamping force).
I ended up machining material off of the flywheel posts, reassembly gave me a the end float required checking it with both a new and a totally worn friction plate installed.
When you say it seems it sits further forward I asume you mean the fingers closer to the release bearing?
The Minispares flywheel shouldn't be your issue as the friction face to the top of the posts should be a common measurement (within a smudge) between all suppliers manufacturers.
If your swapping it out at the weekend with a standard one it might be provident to take measurements from several datums for comparison when the old clutch is back in.
Getting some picture up may help.

Shane

Edited by shane on 10th Jul, 2020.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

that sounds right shane. looking at the two clutch set ups next to each other the fingers are about a quarter of an inch nearer the bearing forcing the clutch arm tighter to the cable bracket. just a thought if i put spacers between wok bolts pulling it away a bit. would that give the same effect as what your saying.

I have it written down in my build notes, I'll dig them out when Im next in the garage. Id say that its not a definitive measurement for all units, I believe the spring position may vary dependant on the springs that you use.
There are guys on here that have built multiple RTS units (more than my two) that may be able to shed more light, Madmk1 Bret sims, obviously their creator/pioneer Robert.

Shane

Are you suggesting for test purposes or as a fix?

The unknown for me is what's caused your extra 1/4", you clutch is currently unknown in terms of the springs used and the spacers that have been machined to accommodate the second spring.
Unfortunately Rod has a valid point with his comment on VMAX (I didn't realise people were sending units to be made by companies0.
I wouldn't want to say machine your flywheel until we've ascertained its construction.
I spent hours progressively increasing the amount removed and reassembling the clutch to get the geometry similar to a standard unit with repeat testing on the press to prove disengagement with the normal plunger travel.
Shane

the washer idea was as a test. i got a tape measure on the two clutches today and it wasnt 1/4 inch more like 3mm which is i guess the thickness of the extra spring. it did look worse to my wonky eye. do you think that 3mm would stop the clutch cable adjusting properly. if you took the 3mm off the flywheel posts that would pull the fingers lower but wouldnt that effect the clamping pressure

3mm is a massive amount to remove, looking at my notes I didn't log the actual amount removed only the final friction face to post top measurement which was 23.7 mm.
What is actually going on with your clutch in terms of operation? you've only stated " i now cant get a pedal on the clutch at all " Are you achieving full travel of the plunger?
Is the throw out stop set correctly?
Need to ascertain that first before going forward.
Shane