Few questions that keep me going.
Turbo Mini Forums

So.
First. I got a boiling battery today. Measured 16.8 at the terminals at 2500 rpm... Voltage regulator in the alternator shot?

Second. When the engine is warm it's hard to shift when not at optimum rpm. or even harder to get into gear on standstill ( neutral to first). It's very short on clutch ( also when cold) . And feels like it's not completely disengaging. Everething is bled and set correct as in terms of play. Removed the spring on top of the arm ( also new arm and pins) The engine has a new preverto clutch and presure plate and bearing and so on ( all new except the flywheel).
Warm engine oil pressure is slightly above 2 up to 2.5 kg/cm2 oil presure at idle ( about 28 to 34 lb/inch) and 3.5 to 4 kg/cm2 of about 50 to 55lb/inch2 at speed.

Can low oil pressure or worn thrust bearings have something to do with that?

Last but not least.
The 1098cc engine developed a oil leak at the Gearbox.
My options now are. 1 get engine out. Completely overhaul Gearbox put in new Maines and thrust and crankshaft bearings while at it. Maybe even replace oil pump.

Or overhaul Gearbox. And mount to a half engine a+ 1330 I have gathering dust on the shelf.
But then question rises. Can I put the Gearbox and pre verto clutch plate and so on on the 1330 or do I need different parts. ( I suspect the Gearbox Wil fit but the flywheel will not)
Since it's a mk1 traveler I want to keep it looking a bit original ( except for the alternator mod etc because I also want it reliable)

Thnx for reading and maybe help to get my answers straight.
Ow the joys

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Yep, sounds like the regulator is shot,

thrusts/oil pressure should have no effect on the clutch, id be looking for a reason for the clutch to be dragging as its in all gears and stopped ( reverse also??)

for the 3rd one, depends if you can sort no 2, and where the leak is.

Hy. Yes. In all gears. Reverse is the worst to take. Noticed yesterday that if I get it into gear foot down on clutch it Wil stand still and running but when I get rpm up still foot down it bites just enough to get the car rolling.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

And I thought worn thrusts let's the crank slide just enough to the side so the clutch leaver can't open the spring but might indeed be far sought.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Worn thrusts (or the corresponding face on the crank) will allow the whole flywheel/clutch assembly to be pushed sideways but you can easily see that if you get someone else to push the clutch pedal while you look at the crank pulley the other end.

Also, as it's pre-verto, just wind the stop bolt (the 1/4" UNF one) until it's actually touching hard (pushes the release bearing inwards) and then check there is still a reasonable gap on the two locked throw-off nuts (if that gap is set too small it can also stop the clutch releasing).

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

well, for the thrusts to be worn enough to cause an issue they would have to be really worn, end float should be less than 10 thou, more like 3-5.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

measure how much cluch mechanism is moving, probably the easiest way to do this is pull the starter and get a dti on the back plate. from memory your looking for approx 50 thou of movment. while your at it yoy can lever the crank back and forth to measure the end float

So. Had a look at the small push rod between piston and clutch arm today. Appears that the one in it was aprox 4 mm shorter then an other rod I had laying around ( both new from minispares though) longer rod in there problem solved.

On with the regulator. That now strange but trough keeps sending out 12.8 v. Might have to do a long drive before the problems show up. All the same. I ordered a new one just to be sure.

Grts.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

mm, if its intermitant then it could be a connection issue,

I reved it to short. Keep it above 2000 for more then 5 to 10 seconds or so 16.8 is coming on the meter.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

sounds like an issue, is thes the standard lucas alternator or a Denso one?

Standard Lucas. Was reworked by a company less then a year ago but have my doubts about what was done.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018