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Home > Show Us Yours! > 1978 Van turbo build

Ralf

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30 Posts
Member #: 11964
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Lindlar

Hi,
since my introduction beginning this year I have read and learned a lot here on this forum.

So replaced my first plan to implement a 1100cc engine with a Metro turbo kit into my 89th Mini to the following.

I Bought a 1978th Van stripped down by the former owner and (hopefully all) parts for restoration.
This will start in spring next year.

At the same time sold my Metro turbo kit and stored the 1100c engine in the furthest corner of my garage.

In parallel the following is done and planned:
> got an original 1275cc engine without head from a standard MG Metro Van (12HD16......)
> got a set of Metro Turbo pistons and conrods
> got a original Metro turbo head. This is finished with new valve seats and guides. The original valves were
good and are still in place.
> got a refurbished HIF44 turbo carb
> got a fusion fabs exhaust manifold kit with down pipe for GT1752 turbo
> got a used GT1752 turbo from a SAAB

Now about what I'm not sure at the moment.
> original 1275cc crankshaft (make sense or not)
> original clutch and gearbox (make sense or not)
> what camshaft ?
> what plenum, original Metro turbo or others?
> what inlet manifold?
> what fuel pump and pressure regulator?

At the end I like to have a nice Van turbo charged for daily use. Should have maybe a little more power than the Metro turbo in its time and should also make mor fun *smiley*

I will post my updates as far as I will have some, maybe will be related to money and time.

If you like to make some comments or proposals for improvements to the above list I would appriceate that.

Regards Ralf


Attachments:

Edited by Ralf on 27th Oct, 2020.


stevieturbo

3430 Posts
Member #: 655
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Northern Ireland

Vans are great, but you gotta lot of work ahead of you !

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


Ralf

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Lindlar

yes, it's a big metal puzzle.
The engine will be a challenge because i haven't done anything like that before.


Rod S

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5934 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

I didn't know there was ever an MG Metro van ???
My donor car was a plain MG Metro 3 door saloon.

No mention of intercooler on your list.

Really needed for reliability.

Standard crank fine IMHO esp. if it's a later one with rolled fillets which it should be if it's from a genuine MG Metro.

Clutch would be verto if it's from an MG Metro so just search RTS on this forum to see how to improve it.

Cam - if the doner is a genuine MG Metro, NORMALLY ASPIRATED, that cam is a good start for a turbo. The MG Metro Turbo cam is not.... it's just a plain 1275 cam..... the normally aspirated MG Metro had an improved cam.

The only other thing that comes up time and time again about the van/traveler variants is the fuel tank....
Too low, too thin (vertically) and hence a pain to get a decent high pressure fuel pump (needed for turbo) to work without lots of mods and swirl tanks etc. Never been there myself but just search it.

Otherwise, good luck.

EDIT - para added

Edited by Rod S on 29th Oct, 2020.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Ralf

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Lindlar

ah, ok. I checked the Metro engine number again in the internet.
You are right, it is only said Metro 1.3 van from 1989. So the MG was an assumption from my side *smiley*

You give me headache regarding the van fuel tank.
I had a hard time to find a good one. Is it realy so bad that I can't use it?

Intercooler is a good point, didn't have it in my mind.


Regards Ralf


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Rod S

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5934 Posts
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Rural Suffolk

On 30th Oct, 2020 Ralf said:
You give me headache regarding the van fuel tank.
I had a hard time to find a good one. Is it really so bad that I can't use it?


No, of course not - you just have to be aware of the issues from it being so low down and wide and the way the fuel will slosh around under cornering. You are hardly building a turbo to drive it slowly around corners......

There are quite a few threads on this forum as to how people have got over the basic issue with some simple solutions and some who get all excited with lift pumps, swirl pots and many more exotic solutions.

Just do a search to see how different people have addressed the issue.

What you do not want is the pump to suddenly lose suction on a fast corner and send your AFRs super lean.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


hazpalmer

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Carlisle, Cumbria

On 30th Oct, 2020 Rod S said:
On 30th Oct, 2020 Ralf said:
You give me headache regarding the van fuel tank.
I had a hard time to find a good one. Is it really so bad that I can't use it?


No, of course not - you just have to be aware of the issues from it being so low down and wide and the way the fuel will slosh around under cornering. You are hardly building a turbo to drive it slowly around corners......

There are quite a few threads on this forum as to how people have got over the basic issue with some simple solutions and some who get all excited with lift pumps, swirl pots and many more exotic solutions.

Just do a search to see how different people have addressed the issue.

What you do not want is the pump to suddenly lose suction on a fast corner and send your AFRs super lean.


I've done this recently as I have a clubman estate. Same fuel tank. I went with a swirl pot and lift pump and high pressure pump. The only reason I did this was because I couldn't find a definitive answer on if I needed one or not. Some say you do, some say you don't etc. So i went with after the advice of Gavin Wilkinson on the facebook group.

I've mounted the lift pump on a plate that attaches to the rear subframe using the rubber bobbins. Then the swirl pot is in the boot mounted to the plate that is pop rivetted in around the wheel arches. Then I have a HP pump on the rear subframe.


Amp

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Essex

Hazpalmer, have you got a link / build thread which shows your install at all?


Bill

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Holland, Eindhoven

I did the same. Hp-pump under the car mounted on the subframe and that was enough to do the job. Make a return hose on the tank.


Ralf

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Lindlar

good informations thanks a lot.
I did some research and found two configuration plans using a swirl pot.
One with internal hp pump and one with external hp pump.

I think that I will go for the version with external hp pump.

Is there any advise about the lift pump? What pumps are you using?

For the hp pump I think I can use the Metro turbo pump.

Another question, what pressure regulator are you using? Is that the Malapassi with 3 or 4 tube connectors?


Attachments:

Edited by Ralf on 4th Nov, 2020.


Ralf

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Lindlar

small update.
Yesterday got my head back from the machining shop.
New valve seats and guides.






Ralf


Rod S

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Rural Suffolk

If your machine shop really returned your cylinder head in the condition shown in the photos I would have to question their competence.

OK, the photo may make it look it's worse than it is but the photos show pitting everywhere and especially between 1-2 and 3-4.

In the photo it looks like pitting, if it's just dirt, they should have washed it of before doing the seats and guides.

And if it is pitting, they should have recommended a light skim.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


e5tus

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Dorset

On 29th Oct, 2020 Rod S said:
Cam - if the doner is a genuine MG Metro, NORMALLY ASPIRATED, that cam is a good start for a turbo. The MG Metro Turbo cam is not.... it's just a plain 1275 cam..... the normally aspirated MG Metro had an improved cam.

I did not know that, thanks for the info Rod.

Good luck with the build Ralf. That head definitely needs a little more love.


Ralf

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Lindlar

yes sure, but no problem. I will do the cleaning.
Work done so far is valve seat and guide. And that looks good to me.

Ralf


monsterob

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Senior Member

Crewe




On 3rd Nov, 2020 Bill said:
I did the same. Hp-pump under the car mounted on the subframe and that was enough to do the job. Make a return hose on the tank.


Ive gone a little mad lift pump and hp in the spare wheel well on my estate and a swirl pot set into the wheel well with a bit sticking above or at least thats how its mocked up atm

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