1978 Van turbo build
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi,
since my introduction beginning this year I have read and learned a lot here on this forum.

So replaced my first plan to implement a 1100cc engine with a Metro turbo kit into my 89th Mini to the following.

I Bought a 1978th Van stripped down by the former owner and (hopefully all) parts for restoration.
This will start in spring next year.

At the same time sold my Metro turbo kit and stored the 1100c engine in the furthest corner of my garage.

In parallel the following is done and planned:
> got an original 1275cc engine without head from a standard MG Metro Van (12HD16......)
> got a set of Metro Turbo pistons and conrods
> got a original Metro turbo head. This is finished with new valve seats and guides. The original valves were
good and are still in place.
> got a refurbished HIF44 turbo carb
> got a fusion fabs exhaust manifold kit with down pipe for GT1752 turbo
> got a used GT1752 turbo from a SAAB

Now about what I'm not sure at the moment.
> original 1275cc crankshaft (make sense or not)
> original clutch and gearbox (make sense or not)
> what camshaft ?
> what plenum, original Metro turbo or others?
> what inlet manifold?
> what fuel pump and pressure regulator?

At the end I like to have a nice Van turbo charged for daily use. Should have maybe a little more power than the Metro turbo in its time and should also make mor fun

I will post my updates as far as I will have some, maybe will be related to money and time.

If you like to make some comments or proposals for improvements to the above list I would appriceate that.

Regards Ralf

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Edited by Ralf on 27th Oct, 2020.

Vans are great, but you gotta lot of work ahead of you !

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will

yes, it's a big metal puzzle.
The engine will be a challenge because i haven't done anything like that before.

I didn't know there was ever an MG Metro van ???
My donor car was a plain MG Metro 3 door saloon.

No mention of intercooler on your list.

Really needed for reliability.

Standard crank fine IMHO esp. if it's a later one with rolled fillets which it should be if it's from a genuine MG Metro.

Clutch would be verto if it's from an MG Metro so just search RTS on this forum to see how to improve it.

Cam - if the doner is a genuine MG Metro, NORMALLY ASPIRATED, that cam is a good start for a turbo. The MG Metro Turbo cam is not.... it's just a plain 1275 cam..... the normally aspirated MG Metro had an improved cam.

The only other thing that comes up time and time again about the van/traveler variants is the fuel tank....
Too low, too thin (vertically) and hence a pain to get a decent high pressure fuel pump (needed for turbo) to work without lots of mods and swirl tanks etc. Never been there myself but just search it.

Otherwise, good luck.

EDIT - para added

Edited by Rod S on 29th Oct, 2020.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

ah, ok. I checked the Metro engine number again in the internet.
You are right, it is only said Metro 1.3 van from 1989. So the MG was an assumption from my side

You give me headache regarding the van fuel tank.
I had a hard time to find a good one. Is it realy so bad that I can't use it?

Intercooler is a good point, didn't have it in my mind.


Regards Ralf

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Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

Hazpalmer, have you got a link / build thread which shows your install at all?

I did the same. Hp-pump under the car mounted on the subframe and that was enough to do the job. Make a return hose on the tank.

good informations thanks a lot.
I did some research and found two configuration plans using a swirl pot.
One with internal hp pump and one with external hp pump.

I think that I will go for the version with external hp pump.

Is there any advise about the lift pump? What pumps are you using?

For the hp pump I think I can use the Metro turbo pump.

Another question, what pressure regulator are you using? Is that the Malapassi with 3 or 4 tube connectors?

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Edited by Ralf on 4th Nov, 2020.

small update.
Yesterday got my head back from the machining shop.
New valve seats and guides.






Ralf

If your machine shop really returned your cylinder head in the condition shown in the photos I would have to question their competence.

OK, the photo may make it look it's worse than it is but the photos show pitting everywhere and especially between 1-2 and 3-4.

In the photo it looks like pitting, if it's just dirt, they should have washed it of before doing the seats and guides.

And if it is pitting, they should have recommended a light skim.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???

yes sure, but no problem. I will do the cleaning.
Work done so far is valve seat and guide. And that looks good to me.

Ralf

Outside the box

small update.
Got the inlet from Maniflow today and it didn't fit with the FusionFabs exhaust manifold.
There was a collision in two areas.
So 2,5mm material milled down in the two areas and everything fit together now.

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after a slight delivery delay, some parts have arrived.



Turbo oil pump



cross pin diff assembled



IWIS chain



and water pump



also got a CSI programmable ignition



the central oil pipe doesn't fit well, but it's just as tight



cross pin diff assembled in housing.



and finally the gearbox is reunited with the block





Now i'm waiting for a new clutch.
The head gasket from performance unlimited is stuck in the frankfurt customs since 12th Feb./21.

I'm curious when the parts will arrive.

great, thanks.

Much better, easy to assemble the push rods now.

the struggle waiting for parts to arrive! Looks good, how does the CSI dizzy work?

I'm not an ignition expert. that's why i bought the csi pro ignition with usb connection.

Copy from attached pdf:
The CSI-Pro-Ignition is a programmable distributor for your classic car, you can adjust and program the advance curve yourself.
2 presets (modes) can be programmed, each with its own rpm and vacuum curve plus various other settings such as speed limiter, maximum total advance and minimum rpm speed for activating the vacuum advance.
Furthermore, the CSI-PRO-Ignition has the unique possibility, even when the engine is running, to write the curves and other settings to the distributor and to have the changes take effect immediately!
The static setting (offset of 0 degrees) can also be shifted in steps of 1 degree, up to 10 degrees positive and up to 10 degrees negative, without having to rotate the distributor himself.
An acceleration timer measures the time between 2 preset speeds to measure and compare the engine's performance.
A switch (see also the connection diagram) can be used to switch which mode, 1 or 2, is active.


I don't know how the engine runs with it, I'll probably find out. attached is the pdf

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Fortunately, after a few weeks of delivery I received my MLS Cometic cylinderhead gasket.

Could somebody tell me whether this gasket is tightened with the same torque as a composite head gasket?

If not, with what torque should I mount the gasket?