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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Dropping the Body on to the Subframe

citykie

2 Posts
Member #: 11879
Junior Member

Hey Everybody,

I'm in the middle of a rather lengthy build, but have made some good progress of late, I'm nearly ready to mount the engine onto the subframe ready to marry to the body.

I had a MG metro turbo engine rebuilt and bench tested at a local engine specialist (Scholar Engines 132bhp and 122ib/ft in run-in tune), I've fitted the clutch, starter, alternator and worked out the water plumbing including the cooling for the turbo. Boost pipe routes etc I'm leaving until I get the engine in

So the question is, how much do I need to worry about space when I drop the body down onto the subframe ?

My intention was to get the engine running to test all the stuff I've done before it goes in. I had to move the dizzy gear as the dizzy vacuum bowl was where the starter wanted to be.

It will have all the ancillaries, a fusionfabs exhaust manifold with a gt1752 trapped to it and obviously the carb and plenum.

I haven't cut away any of the bulk head, she was an Auto CityE 92 but I've used a manual subframe. I've got one of those scissor lifts you power with a drill, (please don't quote me here) I can go down at any angle ! :)

Any Advice more than welcome :) thank you K









*smiley*


shane

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2501 Posts
Member #: 1246
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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

Ive done similar recently with a hydraulic scissor lift.
With the engine on the subframe and the lower engine steady (subframe to clutch housing) installed to stop the engine rocking on its mounts.
Engine/Subframe combo was sat on a dolly under the car to allow movement while you lower the body.
I had the ancillaries off solely as I was carrying out the task solo.
I'd also suggest that you wouldn't want your manifolds installed to give a little wiggle room.
For the amount of time manifolds and ancillaries take to install it not worth risking damage.

If the vacuum module was fouling the starter motor I'd suggest it wasn't installed correctly?

Shane


citykie

2 Posts
Member #: 11879
Junior Member

If the vacuum module was fouling the starter motor I'd suggest it wasn't installed correctly?

Yep I agree, they didn't need the starter and clutch fitted for the bench dyno so the gear position wasn't a consideration. engineers !!!

Edited by citykie on 9th Feb, 2021.


shane

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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

"just throw it in and let the customer worry about it"
*Jester*


Rod S

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5975 Posts
Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

Is that Scholar on the A140 near Mendlesham ?
They did the offset boring for my 1360 exactly to the drawing dimensions I gave them, did a superb job.

Anyway, back to your question, it's doable, many years ago myself and three mates did it by the side of the road lifting the shell off then back on by hand.

The trick we found was getting the angle of the engine just right (using jacks under the front and rear of the subframe) but, even then, if we bumped the shell into it, it would wobble to a new position and we'd have to start again.
It was an early Mini so didn't have the lower steady bar that Shane mentions and the engine mounts were knackered so it wobbled very easily. If we had had a fifth pair of hands to rock the engine back and forth it would have been so much easier....

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Jd24-7

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37 Posts
Member #: 11761
Member

Worcestershire

I've not long done the reverse and lifted the body off the subframe. It seemed to take for ever to get it high enough. It came out with turbo , Carb, alternator, starter and radiator all fitted. Luckily my car is not too precious.... If it was it would be quite scratched!! I might put it back in with a few parts not fitted as its a bit of a bugger working alone.

JD


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shane

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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

Having lifted a body manually in the past I'd have to say the ability to lift/lower steadily and squarely with a lift is a godsend.

Shane


Rod S

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Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk


On 10th Feb, 2021 shane said:
Having lifted a body manually in the past I'd have to say the ability to lift/lower steadily and squarely with a lift is a godsend.


I couldn't agree more (although I have an engine hoist now so take the engine/box out from the top) but back when I was a penniless student, I just used three mates from college.

The only bad part was when I'd finished the repair (mainshaft nut inside the gearbox had come loose so couldn't select gears properly) but when we were lifting the shell back over, the local plod in a panda car stopped and said "it's illegal to dismantle cars at the roadside" and one of my mates responded with "we aren't, we're putting it back together".

He was not amused.......

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


e5tus

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Member #: 10128
Senior Member

Dorset

I've used one to good effect previously. I had removed most ancillaries, less to snag that way.



Mine only lifted so far, then you released a pin for it to pivot. Removing the lump and subframe was easy, disconnect everything, lift up and pull the pin. Getting the bastard to pivot again with all the weight at the rear of the car was an issue. Trolley jack, axle stands and various offcuts of wood if I remember correctly!


shane

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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

I purchased a used/good condition one of these a few years back for sensible money, the purchase was fuelled by suffering with back problems meaning being stooped over for prolonged periods was very unpleasant.

https://www.automotechservices.co.uk/produc...e-scissor-lift/

Has been a very useful versatile addition to the garage.

I made a couple of arms to lift on the sub frames opposed to the floor pans.

I thought I had a picture of the engine coming out from below but I cant find it.

Shane


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