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Home > General Chat > Fuse/relay box upgrade.

Turbo Phil

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My sister is so fit I won't show anyone her picture

Lake District

I’m currently sorting out the wiring behind the dash, I’ve already brought all the wiring inside previously including the fuse box, but I’m looking to make it much tidier and I’ve seen these intergrated fuse/relay boxes.
Has anybody used one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143740356968 or can you recommend anything similar?

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM


shane

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Lowestoft, Suffolk.

I made a custom loom for mine last year incorporating existing circuits and the new EFI ones/water pump etc.
I used one of the four module chassis frames and tailored the inserts to fit fuses and relays for all I needed (images attached are pre addition of loom tape).
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/modular-fuse-...elay-box-system

Shane


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Edited by shane on 15th Mar, 2021.


Rod S

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Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

Both options, and many others, are fine.

What REALLY matters is using the correct crimping tool for the spade connectors.

The correct tool(s) are not cheap but I've seen so many bodges with either pliers or attempts to solder that are just a fire waiting to ignite.

If you are going to spend serious money on a decent fuse/relay box, just pay the extra for the proper crimping tool(s)

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland




On 15th Mar, 2021 Turbo Phil said:
I’m currently sorting out the wiring behind the dash, I’ve already brought all the wiring inside previously including the fuse box, but I’m looking to make it much tidier and I’ve seen these intergrated fuse/relay boxes.
Has anybody used one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143740356968 or can you recommend anything similar?

Phil.


I use the same, they're MTA, and although not listed as their "modular" range...they are modular lol.

They come with clear covers too, and you can click more rows together if need be

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland

You do not need an expensive crimp tool

This little tool is excellent, and covers most stuff you'd ever need in a small W type crimp or round type for a lot of aftermarket ecu's like Motec, DTA, Syvecs etc. Mousers image is wrong, it should have red handles, but it is the correct item
Bizarrely for such a useful crimper, I've never found a UK seller that stocks them

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Sarg...x4pEiBNZQ%3D%3D

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Weather-Pack-Met...nt/222325925545

And this would be the other option. It covers the same W crimps, just in a slightly larger range of openings. Cheap as chips. It does not do round though.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1X-For-Molex-Sty...WG/363067794764

Those two tools will easily cover about 95% of most crimps.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


Rod S

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Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk


On 15th Mar, 2021 stevieturbo said:
You do not need an expensive crimp tool


I think we just have a slightly different interpretation of "expensive"

The two I use were in the same price range as the first two you quoted. The one I use for the Ampseal connectors I use on my ECUs, somewhat more...

The point I was trying to make is don't use the sub-£5 ones you find in various "pound shops" or the centre isle in Lidl......

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland

£2-300+ is expensive for a crimp tool.

The two I listed are very inexpensive.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


Rod S

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Member #: 2024
Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

On 16th Mar, 2021 stevieturbo said:
£2-300+ is expensive for a crimp tool.


Not sure where between £2 and £300 becomes expensive.

I don't even think I could even buy a cheap crap one on the centre isle of Lidl for £2......

But I'm sure you could probably pay £300 on the web if you were stupid enough.

The ones I use for Lucas type connectors were decent quality and around £35. The one I use for the Ampseal connectors I use on my ECUs was a fair bit more but the Ampseal connectors are quite a bit more expensive than Lucas crap. That's why I use Ampseal for ECUs and related wiring.

You get what you pay for Stevie, If you prefer the centre isle in Lidl, it's your choice.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


DILLIGAF

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https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-5...-housing-system


Turbo Phil

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Member #: 20
My sister is so fit I won't show anyone her picture

Lake District

Thanks for the input guys. I’ve sorted the fuse/relay box now.
What’s the preferred method for joining/extending wires? I’ve always just soldered and heat shrinked them.
But has anybody tried these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393138233400

Phil.

WWW.TURBO-MINI.COM


stevieturbo

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Northern Ireland




On 18th Mar, 2021 DILLIGAF said:
https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-52-fuse-boxes-fuses/c-248-modular-fuse-relay-housing-system


As nice as those look, I would not use them. Regular blade fuses can be a little annoying, they're small. But still easily usable.

The Micro fuses are a fucking cunt.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


stevieturbo

3569 Posts
Member #: 655
Post Whore

Northern Ireland




On 19th Mar, 2021 Turbo Phil said:
Thanks for the input guys. I’ve sorted the fuse/relay box now.
What’s the preferred method for joining/extending wires? I’ve always just soldered and heat shrinked them.
But has anybody tried these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393138233400

Phil.


I tried a few of them, and for the most part they're shit. On larger wires, I don't see how you'd ever get enough heat into them to fully melt the "solder" within, without also melting the outer covering too.

On smaller wires they're just so so. They seem neat...but I'd still question how good the joint really is. I have used some on my own car, and I'll probably leave them as is. But they would not be my first port of call, at least not for anything critical.

Whether the ones I bought were just cheap chinese shit or whether they're all like that, I don't know. But I was not impressed.

if it's just a straight join you need, a tiny solder, good quality heat shrink over it would be preferred ( and as long as the joint is well supported within the loom. )

In some parts in order to join one or maybe a small number of wires, I've actually fitted a connector in a suitable location and joined them that way. Makes things serviceable too for testing etc.

9.85 @ 145mph
202mph standing mile
speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


jonboy1210

9 Posts
Member #: 12061
Junior Member




On 19th Mar, 2021 Turbo Phil said:
Thanks for the input guys. I’ve sorted the fuse/relay box now.
What’s the preferred method for joining/extending wires? I’ve always just soldered and heat shrinked them.
But has anybody tried these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393138233400

Phil.


Defo just solder these can be unreliable as solder doesn’t flow very well between copper strands

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