Bleed valve
Turbo Mini Forums

For the installation instructions: https://gfb.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/...nstructions.pdf

It has to be between turbo and wastegate actuator, so simply putting it in place of the standard boost solenoid is not an option right?
Block that line and cut the line between turbo and actuator and put it there.
Can I put on two new lines from turbo to bleed valve and from bleed valve to actuator, that are a bit longer so I can put the bleed valve within reach for easier adjustment?

Cheers,

On the side of the compressor housing there is a brass fitting that passes boost air to the waste gate actuator and the solenoid valve exactly as pictured. As it is set up leave well alone all you need to do is introduce your bleed valve somewhere between the solenoid valve and the brass fitting on the compressor housing. If you are ditching the ecu then just replace the solenoid valve with the bleed valve. Remember all you are trying to do is control the boost pressure felt at the waste gate actuator by introducing a leak.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 9th Aug, 2022.

Own the day

Duplicate post

Edited by Mr Joshua on 9th Aug, 2022.

Own the day

Duplicate

Edited by Mr Joshua on 9th Aug, 2022.

Own the day

Thanks Joshua,

Since I doubt if the boost solenoid and ecu are working correctly, they both have to go.
So no Ecu and no solenoid, just the bleed valve.
Where do I put it?
The instructions say between turbo and wastegate actuator but you say that if I replace the solenoid with the bleed valve this works too?
That would make it a lot easier.
But than the bleed valve has just one side connected? not both like the instruction sais?

Don't jump the gun ditching the oem parts. If the ecu is not controlling then leaving everything where it is will not affect what your doing.

If however you are intent on scraping the oem parts then the boost line that comes from the plenum chamber feeding the ecu and fuel pressure regulator just now needs to go to the f.p.r

Second just replace the solenoid valve with your bleed valve and your good to go.

Own the day

But I think I will have to block the blow side of this valve, else I can blow through it, even when fully closed?!
I presume that is the large hole side.
The actual blow off seems between the ribs.

Then your valve is supposed to work in partnership with the Oe boost controller.

Own the day

That is possible, but block it is possible too right.

Correct

Own the day

You have the same valve type I have fitted. Mine is fitted before the solenoid valve.

I have set the leak to give me just over a bar of boost. So I run with the OE boost controller when daily driving, but I have a switch to turn the ecu off the ecu then i can open the valve and run max boost which is a little over 2 bar.

Now this is the thing by using the OE boost controller you can have a daily driver boost level of what ever you want.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 14th Aug, 2022.

Own the day

I just have disconnected the ecu, removed the line that went to the ecu, that line now only goes to the turbopressure gauge and fuel pressure regulator.
Disconnected the original solenoid
I took the bleed valve, blocked the side with the large hole, and fitted it on the line that went to the solenoid.
I started testing with the screw completely turned in (clockwise) and started driving. When warm I pushed it and revving in 3rd (sorry police) the pressure gauge said it made 4psi, pretty normal with no solenoid and closed bleed valve right? (This by the way is as high as it would get with the original ecu and solenoid, no more, this is why I thought one of them failed and they have to go)
Than I turned the screw 2 turns anti clockwise, and went driving again.
No difference so did it again and again and again, each time in steps of 2 turns.
Now I’ve made 16 turns and still nothing changes.
I’m worried a little, is this amount of turns normal? Should I just keep doing it untill something happens (or the screw falls out).
Did I block the right side of the bleed valve? The side that is now connected has a tiny hole, the side with big hole is blocked.
I took the bleed valve off to see if I can blow air through it with my mouth now and 16 turns. Yes I can, and it goes a bit easier when turning the screw more anti clockwise, but never gets really easy. I can turn a couple of turns more before it doesn’t add any easier blowing and eventually loosening the screw.
What else could be wrong?

Please check the installation guide I posted before.

Cheers Harold

Take it off, wind it all out, blow through it and wind it in, find which port has less and less air going through it. You've then found which ports you need to fit to the line. You must make sure its fitted between the turbo inlet housing and the actuator. No other T pieces etc must be in that line.

Also, how much pre-load is on your wastegate?

Thanks Steve,

So it must me between turbo and actuator?
There is a brass t-piece on the housing, one side goes to the actuator, one side to where the original boost solenoid was. I placed the bleed valve instead of the former boost solenoid and blocked one side of the bleed valve (with the big hole) the nipple with small hole is connected.
The blow off is between the ribs.
Is this a no go? Must it be between turbo and actuator?
The original solenoid I think was in its original place and did no very different things than the bleed valve right?

I have no idea what the preload on my wastegate is?
How can I test this and how can I adjust it?
Something tells me this might be the problem

I’ll take the bleed valve later and test it like you said.

If the turbo has a brass fitting with 2 ports on it off the same thing, block one side. The other side should be a pipe to the boost controller, and from the boost controller to the actuator. Nothing else. It must be between the turbo and the actuator... because that's how you control boost. As the turbo spins faster, it produces more air, which in turn is fed through that line to open the actuator and prevents it spinning any faster - i.e controlling the boost produced. What you are doing with a boost controller is restricting the amount of air/pressure in that line getting to the actuator, therefore allowing the turbo to spin faster (more boost).

Your BOV sensor line should sit on a take off between the throttlebody and the cylinderhead (usually on the inlet manifold) in order to see a vacuum when you let off the throttle. It also provides pressure to close it when you're on boost.

Edited by Steve220 on 13th Aug, 2022.

I just took the bleed valve off again and tested it.
It doesn’t matter in what side you blow, with small or larger hole, if you block the other side, blowing through will get easier when you loosen the screw,
If you blow on the side with the large hole it will get more easy than the side with the small hole, logical maybe.
Maybe try it the other way around tomorrow, with the small hole blocked and large hole connected

How can I check my wastegate actuator? and wastegate?

To check te preload, can I just pop the arm off the wastegate? Close the wastegate (is that to the left?) see if the distance is approx 6mm short of fitting, and if not, turn it in or out the actuator untill it is? Or other way?

Edited by Yoda74 on 13th Aug, 2022.

You have diagnosed where you made your installation error correctly.

You need to fit the pipe coming from that brass T piece to the large port on the control valve. The valve does not need to go in the line between T piece and waste gate actuator the position you have put it is correct you have just fed it into the wrong side of the bleed valve.

A very simple check to see if you have an actuator issue or worst a waste gate issue is to disconnected the bleed valve, leave the pipe open to atmosphere and go for a drive.

Like this you have no boost control so be careful not to go over 0.5 bar 7psi if the engine boosts higher than what you are getting now technically the waste gate actuator is okay. If you only get 4psi of boost you have a stuck actuator stuck/ broken waste gate

Edited by Mr Joshua on 14th Aug, 2022.

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You should be able to move the waste gate actuator by hand, personally I do this check with the turbo off of the car and elbow off the turbo, that way I can see everything.

Edited by Mr Joshua on 14th Aug, 2022.

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I can move the wastegate-to-actuator bar bij hand, some power is needed to fight the spring.
have just popt off the wastegate-bar. (What a hell getting the circlip off)
The wastegate-lever moves freely.
The lever fully to the right (seen from the front of the car) is closed?
Than the center of hole in the bar to hart of the pin was approx a 10mm, I turned the bar counter clockwise so it now is approx 6mm.
I wonder what this, combined with the reversed bleed valve, will do.
Offcourse I’ll start with the bleed valve closed again.

If this won’t work than a carefull drive without bleed valve is next.

Edit: turning the bar counter clockwise didn’t bring it closer to the pin, has turning the bar in the actuator no effect and should the bar be made longer by turning the part with the hole and holding the bar?

Edited by Yoda74 on 14th Aug, 2022.

We have boost!!! 😁

Turning the bleed valve around did the trick!

It’s making 8psi boost now at full power (tested it in 3rd gear, high revs)

8psi is enough for me now, I’m used to 4…

The turbo lag seems bigger, but that’s probably because of a greater difference between of and on boost.

Thanks for your info!

Cheers from Holland

✌🏾peace

Own the day