Newbie to Turbos etc... a Few questions
Turbo Mini Forums

Hey you all...

A few of you may know me off the Miniclassic board and Minifinity etc... I have been on the site before and registered before but I cant remember my password anyway...

I wouldnt mind fitting a Turbo engine to my Studio 2 which is off the road at the moment... I have had a good luck through the sections and various threads and its all good stuff... but I have a few questions that I cant find the answers to..

I would really like to go the Turbo route but what are the reliability of the Metro Turbo engines like in standard ish form?

Are the gear boxes any better from the standard MG Metro 1275 lump to the Metro Turbo lumps?

I would like one as a daily driver (15,000 miles roughly a year) would the turbo and block survive? As I just want a good standard 1275 Turbo engine running more or less standard except for obvious modifications that make the lump run better and more reliable...

Did the standard Metro Turbos come with ECUs? and is it better to keep this for a Mini conversion or should you scrap it

Are they easy to maintain? A
Are Turbos themselves reliable?
If the turbo fails will the engine still run?

Are there early Turbo blocks and later blocks, if so is there any difference?


I am really sorry guys about all the questions, but I need to know what its all about, as I was going to go 1330 (non-turbo) but all in all I feel the Turbo option would be better for my application

Hope I have not bored you all

Thanks for any feedback at all

Cheers
Dan

A std engine will probably give you 50-100k miles if it is built right, maintained right and driven right!

There are two types of turbo block, but the differences between them a fairly minior eg different pistons and early blocks tend to be linered, some also had a hi-spec crank. After about 1990 all 1275 A+ engines used the same block design (with turbo type main bearings).

The turbo gearbox has a larger nose bearing, but this does virtually nothing to improve the strength of the gearbox... they are always the weak link on any high power A-series engine.

As to will it stand 15k a year is difficult to answer... yes it could but remember you need to service it every 3k miles so thats 5 services a year........! If I were you I would stick to a std engine and not rag it everywhere hehehehe

There was an ECu with was effectivly a boost control to drop the mid-range torque. All this does is protect the gearbox at the expense of performance. Personally I would leave it out and rebuild the gearbox more often!

Alex

AlexF

lol

Thanks for that Alex...

yeah I service my current 1293 engine 4/5 times a year anyway.

I in a bit of a sitaution anyway with money and minis at the moment anyway but I am really interested in going the turbo route.

I want something that will be relaible and will standard up to a good poke everyone in a while. I understand about the gearbox, but running a low boost and driving sensible should be okay for a few months till I can save enough for a decent box?

I have no real experiance in engine building but I am willing to learn.

Thanks for the reply for my questions I will carry on reading through the site

Cheers
Dan

If moneys an issue i wouldn't turbo! They cost more to run, serice and insure as well as drink more fuel... but they are more fun

Well I saw a gearbox yesterday that was happliy running on 4.5psi (failed ECU) and it literally ripped the gearset apart after only a few thousand miles...

But it was a recon box so I have no idea if it was a cheapo shitter or DIY bodge!

The only way to learn is to do it!

AlexF

really...

"The only way to learn is to do it!"

I like that hehe

As I said money is a bit of an issue at the moment, so it will probably be later in the year if I do...

what was the life span of a Standard Metro Turbo from leaving the factory if the gearboxes are that bad?

I have heard that Jack Knight boxes are the dogs dangles but is there any more I should take a look at? Also whats the best way to go..standard or striaght cut?

Jack Knight are no longer in business... and as for being the best, thats debatable!

A std gearbox can last as long as 100k miles or as low as 100


alex

AlexF

Thanks for the advice Alex...

Although may main concern at the moment is getting the car back on the road I am very tempted to start sourcing parts..

Thanks for your time and help

Dan

A standard gearbox is a good piece of kit (aside from the ratios!!!)
You take a standard box and replace EVERY bearing, and fit a MiniSpares Cross-pin diff, and you'll not have a problem for a LONG time. SC doesn't mean long life - far from it...

As regards high mileage - if your 15k / year is 13000 miles at 3-5000 rpm cruising on the motorway in 4th gear, then you'll easilly do this. Gearboxes are under a lot less stress in higher gears. Also, you're only cruising - not at near peak torque (like when accelerating).

The turbo nose bearing has around a 30% greater radial load carrying capacity than the nat-asp unit.

If you keep it to std boost levels, fit a lambda readout gauge, and keep the 'part throttle leanout' system, you can easilly get good economy at cruise. You can't cheat physics however - if you want to accelerate an object quicker, you need more energy, which comes from fuel!!! Drive slower, and it's better....

Haynes metro manual is the best guide for rebuilding a gearbox. It really is not hard. I can offer assistance if needed - You in NW aren't you?

Check out www.manchesterminis.co.uk and look in the technical section. There is a section in there on gearboxes...

Edited by turbodave16v on 5th Feb, 2004.

Hi Dave,

I read your interesting note on gearboxes this afternoon at work.. I must say very interesting... I understand what you are saying overall.

I wont lie to you and some of th stuff you said above mainly the lamba read out and part throttle I dont really understand.

I am in the NW I run the NW Mini Club... hehe
Your assistance would be fantastic.

As I said I will be looking to do this in the not to distant future so any help and advice would be great...

I have a spare 1 litre in the back garden I may just split it to get familar with the a series block and box...

I I do sometime in the future get a Turbo engine, I will definately be rebuilding the box... but what do you look for in the block and head for wear... depending on how the engine has been running is it adviseable to rebuild these to?

Sorry for all the questions I am just getting a feel about what is involved...

Thanks

Dan

Well if it's an A+, the gearbox might be a good source of spares, so don't let them get rusty (or break them!!!)

If the engine has doen more than 50K, chances are the valve seats need re-cutting....
We've also been hearing recently about the heads coming off the sodium exhaust valves....
Worth bearing in mind - ie don't worry about the head, this can have attention paid to it later...

Something no-one seems to tell newbies is that you can use (for a mildly tuned engine) a stock 1275 engine and gearbox and turbo that.... So if you are offered a whole load of turbo bits and/or knackered engine, then a good running 1275 from a metro could be all you need to get you going.

I'd always rebuild the gearbox no matter what, and stick a 4pin Minispares diff in there, as if/when the pin fails, it makes a real mess...
As regards the engine, if it has good, equal compression, i'd drop the crank and replace (if the wallet allows!) all the shells (assuming the crank is A-O-K) or regrind as required. ARP rod-bolts give peace of mind. Always replace the oil pump. New oil seals everywhere, and re-assemble. If you have to pull the pistons, it starts getting very expensive....

I have just been on the Mini spares website.. and put it this way ... ignorance is bliss! hehe

I have read about using an existing standard MG 1300 block before but is there something about the CR being to high?

Also if anybody is thinking of doing this soon there is a Turbo, lnlet and head for a 1300 on ebay, it comes with a load of goodies and looks to be okay for someone wishing to convert there existing 1300 block.

Dave is there anywhere round here that does re-build bottom ends and does a good job with similar specs to that you have said? I really wouldnt mind doing it myself but I dont think I am to technically wise to do this yet...

Thanks
Dan