Cam bearing removal
Turbo Mini Forums

Hi guys, im back

Need to get the cam bearings out now, how do you guys go about this?

Was thinking of using a hacksaw blade and folding it in on itself?

Been told to stick the new ones in the deep freeze for a few hours then they should go in quite freely, or is it a machine shop job :( ?

Again, cheers guys

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Hammer and drift.........

It's much easier letting the guy that fits the new ones take the old ones out. He won't score the races either..

OK. Cam bearing removal with hammer and drift.

Buth what's the best approach to fit the new ones?

Lube, hammer and drift???

In the second cam bearing topic which i had searched for is also no instruction:



Thanks for your advice!

http://www.minifreunde.at

I made up a set of pullers on the lathe at work, as per the instructions on the APT website, works a treat!!

knocking them in can knacker them with the puller you can pull them in nice and slow.

http://www.aptfast.com/

righto, to get mine out, i made my own puller using a long threaded bar and a snug socket

i tried leaving the new ones in the freezer overnight (left the block next to the open fire aswell) and gently tapped them in, but the cam wouldnt go back in, so another £12 to minispares to get another set, this time left it to the 'professionals' and got a local engineering firm to press it in, the cam still wouldnt go in, and the bloke, wouldnt except it, and was being so ham fisted with it, he ended up putting a massive ridge in the bearing and had to tap the cam out with a mallet.

ended up lugging the block down to morspeed, he reamed the ridged out, and in 5 mins it was a goodun.

I beleive he uses a special tool for inserting new ones which keeps them perfectly aligned, although knowing me ive probably got the wrong end of the stick.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

With the cam bearing tool I made, the first set i put in went in pretty easy after I removed the scoring in the block where some one had removed bearing previouly, I pulled them in, and slid in the cam, which was tight, I traced this to a nick on the centre journel of the cam, removed this with a stone and the cam then fitted snug but not tight.

I intend to have turned up a drift that allows each bearing to either be driffted out or in whilest locating in all three bearings journals/ bores thereby eliminating any miss alignment. Cam should fit first time with no damage to any of the bearings. Unlike the apauling job the guy did on the ones in my 1400 block and i paid him to do it.

Any one want one when i have tested it, getting it made next week.

Oh and I would always check that the bearings fit the cam first.

they need reaming out to size once fitted thats why its just as easy to get a good engine machine shop to do it.
normally about £40-£60 to do

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

apparently if you do it right, with a proper tool, theres no need to ream them...

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

well joey i havnt herd of one yet unless the cam you are using has worn journals.

scholar engines always fit new beaings and with the new cam line bore all bearings together.

then they are a nice snug fit how ever i have known new bearings to be fitted which hasnt needed reaming but that wasnt the norm.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

I have to say I have never needed to ream cam bearings, after all they are similar material to crank shell bearings and you wouldn't dream of reaming those!

Good point Tom, never though about it like that.

If a line bore for the Mains housings costs around 100 and thats with the journals all at the same size, its going to be a lot more than 40 for seting up for three different size housings. I dont realy know though, i am purely speculating

I think its a ploy by some machine shops to get a little more money for a job that is litteraly just a replacement, End Of.

Edited by Sprocket on 14th Apr, 2006.

I've also never had a problem where the whole thing needed reaming. I've had a 'high spot' before though - which generally reveals itself as a tight cam (twist the cam a few times and the high spot is obvious).
I very carefully removed this one and only high spot and the cam slid in and rotated fine. Looking at it after 2 years - just this second (went into the garage to check) and I struggled to find where the high-spot was.
It certainly has had no ill effects on the rest of the shell or cam.

Edited by turbodave16v on 15th Apr, 2006.