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daniel_johno

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Aberdeen

Ive just bought a metro turbo engin eto go in my mini once its restored. I was told the engine ran fine when removed from car but would i be best rebuilding it just to be on the safe side?

I was thinking of changing big end/mains bearings, oil pump, avonbar phase 2 cam if i do rebuild, is there anything else which would be worth changing?

Im planning on increasing the boost a bit aswell so should i have some work done on the chambers of the head to decrease CR?

Thanks for looking,

Dan


Nick
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i'd go for a full rebuild/rebore personally. have a look at http://www.morspeed.co.uk for one of his 1293 engine kits if you want to build it yourself and save a bit of £££... if you plan on raising the boost then its the only way forward imo...

Edited by Nick on 26th Jan, 2006.

On 20th Oct, 2015 Tom Fenton said:

Well here is the news, you are not welcome here, FUCK OFF.


daniel_johno

125 Posts
Member #: 751
Advanced Member

Aberdeen

yeah i was thinking i might need a rebore but im on a bit of a budget and dont want to spend thousands on the engine. Is it possible to get a rebore and just use bigger piston rings and keep the origional pistons or am i talking rubbish?
Im not after a ridiculously fast engine but i want to beable to increase performance abit and also have it reliable as im sure everyone tries to achieve.
Dan


Tom Fenton
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No you can't bore it and just use bigger rings, that will not work, as you will get piston slap.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
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turbodave16v
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My first ever turbo engine didn't need a rebore - I just replaced the shells, oil pump, valve seals, etc,etc, etc and it lasted well.

Do a leakdown, or at the least a compression test and see how the bores look.
If all is good - then don't rebore IMO. You've enough to be doing installing the unit - and you're not going to be winding it upto silly boost levels 'out of the box' so it'll probably do good service - so long as eveything else looks good.

Gearbox is important to 'freshen up' aswell.
There are a good few peeps dotted all over the UK who can help you out here. I'd change EVERY bearing, but if the baulk rings look good, leave them be (probably a better quality than the aftermarket ones)... If you feel confident (it is easy if you have the haynes metro manual) just change the beaings yourself!

Edited by turbodave16v on 26th Jan, 2006.

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
Sorry to say My Herpes are no better


Ready to feel Ancient ??? This is 26 years old as of 2022 https://youtu.be/YQQokcoOzeY



daniel_johno

125 Posts
Member #: 751
Advanced Member

Aberdeen

Can i do a compression test if the engine isnt installed in a car and running?
I know a guy seling a Jack Knight 4 speed SC/CR box so im going to buy that for the engine and get it rebuilt aswell if i cant manage it myself.
What parts would you recommend replacing upgrading? Ive heard the Avonbar phase 2 works wonders with the engine so ill fit one of those.
What about the likes of the clutch, should i fit an uprated one and lightened flywheel? The rumour is they cause the engine to stall at low revs and teh idle needs to be increased is this true?

Sorry about all the questions

Dan


Richie

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if it was moi, and it has been, i would go for a full rebuild. everything about the engine as it stands is an unknown. i can say from experience that installing an engine then pulling it back out days later is very disapointing, not to mention time consuming.

i would (funds permitting)
# split the box etc from the block.
# get the greabox and diff serviced / checked (this afterall is going to get some serious stick)
# new shells, and possibly crank pollish/re grind.
# pistons out and bores checked. new rings as a matter of course.
# head off, valves cleaned and new valve stem oil seals.
# block checked and possibly new cam bearings. plus at this point you can remove the followers and drill em if need be also may want to put phase 2 cam in (not mandatory tho)


i have just done all of the above only thing that is an unknown on the engine now is the turbo....i also put arp rod bolts / mains etc on
clutch i would use lightened flywheel (non verto) billet back plate and an orange diaphragm, but no doubt will get called a tosser 4 this :)

my setup is
1275 standard bore, new rings, cam bearings
phase 2 cam
arp rod bolts mains + center main strap
metro turbo challenge sc gearbox and cross pin diff (evolution)
sc drops
1-3 ratio rockers
cossie 2wd intercooler.

intended boost to be 12 -14 psi. (not sure what bannanas it will produce though)

more the boost more the prep and reinforcement in weak areas needed, also more boost (bannanas) = less reliability....... for every day use i would run stock with a nice intercooler and low boost and keep it simple :)

just my opinion bud

Richie



Edited by Richie on 28th Jan, 2006.



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