clutch/flywheel removing.
Turbo Mini Forums

have got the wok off and can see the flywheel etc, got the puller tool on it and the big bolt out and the thing behind the bolt.
but it doesent feel 'right' is there something am missing? thisis on the turbo engine, we have just taken one off a pre A plus engine and it came much easyer. is there soemthng i am missing?
a quick reply would be great as its getting dark v quick!

thanks! Dan

some times they can be very evry very very stiff!!!

keep winding on the force

it took 3 of us holding the engine, and a scaffolding pole to get mine off

WOW ok:) as long as its not a bolt i have misses lol, i have the flywheel retaining screws off aswell, is there a spring i need to take off?

you taking off a verto?

if so the haynes bible says
make sure the slots in the crank shaft are at 3 and 9 oclock postions, lock the flywheel

remove centre nut and gubbins

fit puller and tighten

well i got it off....
but i dident line the flywheel up (my haynes is at my old work waiting for me to colect it)
cylinders 1 and 4 were at TDC tho (BL handbook said this but seemed vague in other stuff)

going to change clutch as it is low, and release bearing as its off and havehad one seize before:)

hope it goes back together ok, and it came off with quite a bang is that right? lol

thanks, Dan

thats ok, i think the lining up thing is to stop the gear c clip dropping and holding it on. I must confess that i usuallly forget

when theyre stiff they come with a bang (not a groan and a sign), nothing to worry about

one tip dan for future ref is to get some better bolts than what the puller normally comes with, some good high tensile bolts have made all the difference in the past when I've tried to remove flywheels

thanks for th epointers just need to get a new plate and release bearing and put back together! thanks for the reasurance and help i was verry worried when turninig it lol

Dan - where woudl i be without this forum - looks at donating :)

When you put it back, it is worth lapping the flywheel onto the crank taper, much in the same way you lap valves into their seats using grinding paste.

I am sure this has been detailed before, but basically it stops the flywheel from fretting on any (microscopic) high spots on the crank taper.

Only takes a few mins well worth doing. Also make sure you use a new lockwasher under the crank bolt.

http://www.minispares.com/SearchResults.as...&method=0&ty=fi

is that the washer you mean tom i dont remeber seeing it?
there is another one i think your actually talking about that alighns the crank and flywheel? but cant find it on minispares website? any help?

thanks, Dan

Depends if you have verto or old clutch/flywheel here??

The verto has a lockwasher thing built into the head of the bolt I seem to remember??? The early type has a seperate tab washer that you bend the edge up to secure the bolt.

i am told its a verto type, it has like a big metal disk that holds the flywheel and crank in line and then a big bolt that goes through it and holds onto the crank, the bolt seems to have tabs that could bend over the head, but they werent on mine the socket just went straight on. hope you can understand that. the only pics of the clutch i got today was the clutch plate.

It is the verto type then. Should have been a 30mm socket onto the crank bolt?

The tab is supposed to bend onto the head, although I don't think they achieve much on the verto setup.

On the verto ones the tab is spot welded to the bolt and bends into the slot on the flywheel,It just unbends it's self when you undo it

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!