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jufferb

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stourport-on-severn, worcestershire

hi peeps,
is there an alternative to sodium valves. i need valves for 37mm exhaust and 32mm inlet. and is it hard to change a block form 9 stud to 11 stud

If in Doubt, go flat out !!!


Vegard

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7765 Posts
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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

I guess you mean 37 inlet and 32 exhaust. Why on earth would you use these sizes in a Turbo? You need all the meat between the valve seats you can have.

To make a block 11 stud, just drill the holes and tap. The metal is there.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



jufferb

66 Posts
Member #: 775
Advanced Member

stourport-on-severn, worcestershire

i thought bigger the exhaust vale the faster the gas out

If in Doubt, go flat out !!!


Tom Fenton
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15302 Posts
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

True, and also the faster the heat generated by the turbo will crack the cylinder head between the valve seats and knacker it!

The valve sizes you mention are too big for turbo use.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


BENROSS

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9812 Posts
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Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

jufferb you have it wrong my friend

its impossible to fit the size valves you want the other way around!

the "optimum" valve size on a 5 port head for TURBO application is....
35.6mmi inlet
30 or 31 mm exaust is the max with out off setting the valve guids and then having the seats re-cut.

of course you can! but.......... and its a but.....*frown*

dont be tempted to do so as you will run into trouble.

the turbo will produce all the power on the above valve sizes you need! to have a Chav bashing mini*wink* *laughing**laughing**laughing*

of course there is a shade more to it than that with heads & valves sizes *laughing*

the minispares 214N stainless race valves gives excellent results
and are well priced!

they are more than up to the job. *wink*

regarding the extra 2 head studs, its just a simple matter of getting hold of a 11 stud head, removing the valves of th 9 stud head, place the 11 stud head on top alighn the two heads togeather spot through and remove the head & drill through!

place this newley modded head on the block spot through , then drill & tap for the new head studs

the thread sizes are... 3/8UNC on the left hand side & i think! correct me if iam wrong chaps, 1/4 UNC on the right hand side but remember not to go too deep on this side or you will break into the water pump housing.

hope this helps your train of though.

Edited by BENROSS on 15th Feb, 2006.






Tom Fenton
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15302 Posts
Member #: 337
Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

On my engine both the extra 2 studs for the 11 stud are 3/8 UNC.

However there is a different torque setting for the water pump end one (lower) to stop you distorting the block in that area as the deck is thinner.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


Tom Fenton
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15302 Posts
Member #: 337
Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

&

TM legend.

Rotherham South Yorkshire

Hmmm don't think so. As the small bore heads are narrower, so I don't think there is room between the rocker cover and thermo housing.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


BENROSS

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9812 Posts
Member #: 332
Resident Cylinder Head Modifier

Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

The torque setting you mentiond tom is 25ftb on the 1/4 unc bolt if my 90 year old memory serves me well

what did you torque your 3/8 nut to ?
over the water pump housing?

pete i cant see a problem with this on the small bore engines

but other peeps may have differing oppinions.





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